Ice climbing in the Aosta Valley

Probably the most famous Valpelline ice climb when it comes to medium-high difficulty. Its fame is surely deserved, so much as to be absolutely recommended to all ice climbing enthusiasts with a little spirit of adventure. In fact, we are not exactly in the typical comfort zone of the Cogne valleys; before planning the climb, it is necessary to consider a number of factors including, of course, the snow. It may seem lengthy when approaching it, depending on the road viability to the dam of Place Moulin.
The ice climb is characterised by a big stalactite jump at the start point (of varying difficulty depending on its formation), followed by a higher section that seems easier but anchors need to be applied for safety. Fixed anchors (spits) were present once, but even the solid expansion bolts were wiped away with the mighty rush of the summer waters.
Technically, it is comparable to Stella artice in Valeille … but requiring a greater effort overall.

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Marlier, C. Rosset 1989
Altitude: 2050 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,48074 Lat.: 45,891793 - UTM (ED50) - X: 382213,61 Y: 5083345,98

L1: pretty vertical jump that can be approached along different lines. Belay at the end on ice. There used to be a belay on the rock to the right (spit) that can no longer be used.
L2, L3, L4: the difficulties of the ice climb decrease considerably. You climb belaying at will on ice to the end of the waterfall.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb (abalakov).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Beautiful line representing the flagship of the high Valtournenche area. It forms practically every year but the periods I which it can be climb it are few because of high avalanche hazard. It is a sure high-mountain environment to yet another masterpiece signed by Gian Carlo Grassi. Assess very carefully the snowpack stability upstream of the ice climb … consideration that applies to all lines of this area!

Level: IV/5
Length: 400 m
First ascent: G.C. Grassi, M. Rossi 1986
Altitude: 2450 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,59596 Lat.: 45,922828 - UTM (ED50) - X: 391213,7 Y: 5086630,39

It is usually climbed in even long pitches, always belaying to the right (going up). The first five belays are equipped with fixes, the last two are done on ice.

Descent: abseiling back down the ice climb stopping on the belays used to climb. The first two abseils from the top are to be equipped on abalakov, the following five are on 12 mm fixes and quick maillon. Use of 60metre ropes is mandatory.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

This is the centre line of the lower part of the Laures amphitheatre. Well recognisable thanks to its diagonal and straight courses from right to left. It offers a wonderful atmosphere, embedded in the rocks that vaguely resemble a gully. Recommendable.

Level: II/3
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A Casalegno, F. Toldo 1985
Altitude: 1400 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,40693 Lat.: 45,704773 - UTM (ED50) - X: 376072,89 Y: 5062679,33

Series of never vertical ridges interspersed with connecting stretches. Normally, it is climbed with four long pitches; all belays are made on ice. No material in place.

Descent: the most fulfilling and fun solution is surely to follow the icy stream in its entirety until you are a few metres east of the La Vieille alpine pasture. Follow the path to the right down to the base. Alternatively, you can still descend anywhere by abseiling, using the many trees available. No material in place.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is definitely one of the reference ice climbs in the central valley. This is a good iced jump, a hundred metres high, ending in an impressive free-standing, located in a sort of large rocky ravine visible from the motorway between the junctions of Châtillon and Nus.
Unfortunately the low altitude does not guarantee its forming every year; a long period of intense cold would be needed to allow a safe consolidation. It must be said that the conditions of the ice climb are easily monitored from the road.

Level: II/5
Length: 150 m
First ascent: A. Cambiolo, P. Sartore 1985
Altitude: 650 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,53194 Lat.: 45,730872 - UTM (ED50) - X: 385857,46 Y: 5065392,77

L1: long pitch of about fifty metres facing an icy slide with inclination progressively increasing. Belay at the top left on rock (spit).
L2: climb a rather complex section (petals and cauliflower conditions) of about twenty metres that leads to the base of the final free-standing. Belay on ice.
L3: tackle the vertical column up to its summit and continue for about twenty metres until you find the abseiling anchorage on the left. Belay on rock to the upper left (spit).
From here, you can abseil down, otherwise you will have to continue with an easy pitch that allows you exit into the woods alongside the ice climb.

Descent: with two 60-metre long abseils on the right bank, using the spit anchors of the first and third belay, or, from the end of difficulties, climb a few more easy jumps and then leave to the left into the woods. With a wide bend turning east, find a trail that leads downhill, not far from the dirt road that passes near the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Two fantastic parallel waterfalls are found upstream from the Alpe Cortoz (Cortoz Alp), which have now become the reference site for the first outings of the season. The relatively high altitude and shaded exposure facilitates its taking form quite early; furthermore, the absence of snow allows safe condition to traverse. The site is to be avoided if the snow pack is unstable.
The solution to the right consists of three major jumps interspersed with short connecting sections. Easily combinable with the left parallel (Sbregoretex).

Level: IV/4
Length: 180 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, R. Nicco 1984
Altitude: 2180 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,70444 Lat.: 45,873801 - UTM (ED50) - X: 399536,45 Y: 5081040,79

You can usually climb it in four pitches, with belays on rock (fix) on the right bank.

Descent: abseiling with fixes on the right bank.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The Pinter waterfalls (Right and Left), together with the Cascate dell’Alpe Cortoz, means you will be sure to find ice in Val d’Ayas. Altitude and exposure guarantee the enduring formations during the season. If there is snow, you can access it from above on skis with the possibility of making some great descents (although short), almost always on fresh snow up to the Crest. Between the two solutions, the one on the right is definitely more interesting and, after the first jump, it offers many climbing possibilities.
Three illustrious names made the first ascent: the indisputable protagonists of the “Nuovo Mattino”... (New Morning) ... who did not mind even ice waterfalls, every now and then.

Level: III/3
Length: 120 m
First ascent: M. Bernardi, A. Gogna, A.L. Rochat 1981
Altitude: 2450 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,77555 Lat.: 45,817767 - UTM (ED50) - X: 404959,89 Y: 5074728,09

L1: initially vertical pillar, gradually inclining up to a large basin at the base of the higher jump. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
Transfer to the base of the wall, which can be tackled at several points.
L2: different possibilities. The easiest solution can be found on the far right — a large, very sloping gully. At the centre and on the left, there are two ridge sequences, interspersed with an easier connecting stretch. For all the variations, you should make a long pitch up to the end of the ice, where there is a belay. Belay on rock at the end of the centre solution (fix).
L3: easy to leave the difficulties, which are generally snow and some easy mixed trails up to the summit plateau; no belay in place (dead man anchor or efficient shoulder belay).

Descent: from the end of the difficulty, climb a few metres more and then take the snowy channel that runs alongside the waterfall on the left bank. On foot, you will quickly return to the base. If the said channel has a heavy and dangerous snow load, you can descend the waterfall with two abseils.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The symbolic ice climb of Vallone della Legna is definitely the most spectacular. It is generally divided into two parallel solutions: the easier one on the left and the more difficult one on the right, normally with a technical degree of difference. Both lines can be climbed in two lengths belaying on ice halfway (there are old spits that you should avoid using) or – more elegantly – in a 60-metre length (handle the friction of the ropes well).

Level: II/4-5
Length: 60 m
First ascent: F. Conta, F. Scazzoli 1986, left line
Altitude: 1450 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,63 Lat.: 45,60735 - UTM (ED50) - X: 393252,05 Y: 5051534,14

Left line (WI4) : initial stretch of petal and cauliflower texture followed by a short vertical pillar up to an impressive plateau, hence a gradually less inclined ramp from left to right leads to the end of the difficulty.
Right line (WI5) : significant sequence of two big free-standings separated halfway by a ledge where you can belay on ice. The first part is generally more technical due to the large medusas and short overhanging passages.
For both lines, belay at the top to the tree (ropes).

Descent: a 60-metre abseil from the tree on the summit (ropes and maillon).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is a beautiful ice structure that is clearly visible from the village of Lillaz. It features a rather fun climb, especially on the second pitch that runs diagonally to the right where you can choose whether to pass between rocks and ice (sometimes you have to break some edges to make a hole) or climb outside the edges (more delicate and exposed).
The following describes the most frequent climb, which is the one on the left. You can often start on the right by going up a fine free-standing followed by a long traverse to the left up to the belay of the classic route. In the latter case, be very careful of the overhanging edges as you will be climbing vertically!

Level: III/5
Length: III/5
First ascent: S. Mazza, E. Marlier 1990
Altitude: 2000 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,40326 Lat.: 45,590409- UTM (ED50) - X: 375533,93 Y: 5049979,18

L1: rather repetitive series of vertical walls, going from left to right. Belay on rock (fix and chain).
L2: diagonally toward the right searching for the best passage between stalactites and edges. Normally, you can go into a sort of tunnel between rocks and ice (easier), otherwise you have to cross outside on the ice stalactites which are always rather smooth (more difficult). When the ice ends, a fix protects a short mixed passage (M4) which allows you to reach the channel at the summit. Belay on the left on rock (fix and chain).

Descent: two solutions. With a long and rather exposed abseil (60 metres) from the S2 or exit onto the summit’s forest and fix a chain to a tree on the waterfall’s right bank; an abseil will take you back to where the backpacks were left, which is normally to the far left of the waterfall’s base.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The most classic among the classics in Valnontey ... and much more. It is definitely the busiest trail in the valley. To be avoided at weekends because a long queue is guaranteed! You must keep in mind, however, that even in the presence of several roped parties, it is still possible to climb without jeopardizing the safety of the progression. The ice climb in fact consists of several independent jumps; all you have to do is just wait until the roped parties before you have finished their pitch.
Be cautious in the event of heavy snowfalls or the general instability of the fresh snow. Contrary to what you might think, the cascade is quite exposed to avalanches … especially to the greater ones.
The WI3 technical assessment obviously takes into account the easier route; needless to say that numerous, more difficult versions are also available.
An interesting pillar is formed from time to time just a few metres to the left of the start of the cascade: this is a fascinating alternative to decongest possible crowding on the main route.

The following is a description of the simplest and most direct route that also includes medium/long pitches. There are also other climbing opportunities when the ice allows it, providing for intermediate belays (usually equipped with fixes). Our advice of course is to avoid overcrowding the same belays while trying to be as independent as possible: fortunately, the ice allows considerable route customization.

Level: III/3
Length: 250 m
First ascent: G. C. Grassi, P. Marchisio 1985
Altitude: 1950 m
Exposure: West-North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,32951 Lat.: 45,552873 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369694,56 Y: 5045926,15

L1: the first jump of the ice climb can be tackled at several points. The easiest route involves passing a not so steep icy dihedral on the left, followed by a cross to the right until the end of the jump. 60 metres. There is a belay on the rock to the right (fix). This belay can also be reached by directly passing over two well supported ridges interposed by a large, almost horizontal, mantelshelf which you can rest on.
L2: move to the left and take on a frozen ridge, initially steep then more sloping at the end. Then walk up to a large stony block. 40 m. There is a belay at the upper right of the stony block (fix).
L3: walk several metres to the base of a short frozen ridge that can be easily passed from the centre. Belay on upper left of rock (fix).
Short transfer to the base of the upper part of the ice climb.
L4: the wide icy wall of the upper part allows you to climb everywhere, following at least 4 independent lines. 40-50 metres. In all cases, the belay is located on the top right before the rocky bottleneck (fix).
L5: move to the left into the centre of a narrow gully and climb it up to its end. Belay on rock at the upper right (fix).

Descent: if necessary, it is possible to abseil down from any belay (fix). The most practical solution however is to abseil down from the last jump (2 rappels). From here, walk diagonally to the right (facing downhill) going down into a sort of channel that runs along the right bank of the ice climb. You will end up exactly where the backpacks were left. Be careful in the case of heavy snowfalls, the slopes you descend are short but quite steep. It is recommended that you keep the crampons on during the descent.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Not many words are needed to describe this slide; it is simply one of the most famous ice climbs in the world. It was lionized after the first climb, made under very difficult conditions and with little ice. Over the years, it has been repeated regularly and tamed with fixes at the belays on both sides.
A short note on the technical assessment. After thousands of roped parties repeated over the years, there has been a tendency to downsize the difficulty level by one degree. In fact, considering the structure under the best conditions but without signs of passage, it features a first section that is wholly vertical for almost one hundred metres. Obviously, if you split this section into three or more lengths, the physical effort is greatly reduced. Otherwise, a WI6 assessment would be more than appropriate if it is performed in two long pitches.
The story of the first climb is relatively unknown and analysed in depth with some anecdotes written by Elio Bonfanti in his work of 2009, after having taken on the ice climb with F. Conta and F. Damilano on the 20th anniversary of its opening. To recap, the rush to the first climb of Repentance super has certainly helped increase the level of ice climbs in Valle d’Aosta giving rise to an almost competitive movement that brought locals A. Cambiolo and E. Marlier to the ascent of Di fronte al tradimento the day after the first ascent of Repentance …
Unfortunately, still many roped parties only do the first half of the ice climb and abseil down from the end of the most difficult part. It is actually much more rewarding to continue up to the top and finish the climb on the plateau of Money; the last portion of the pitch offers the stark contrast between vertical and horizontal.
The following describes the path on the left bank which is the one normally taken. Bear in mind that you can also climb from the centre or the left (facing upwards), where some belays on the rock are available (old bolts and pitons).

Level: III/6
Length: 250 m
First ascent: F. Conta, F. Damilano, G. C. Grassi, F. 1989
Altitude: 2100 m
Exposure: West North West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,32693 Lat.: 45,547463 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369480,78 Y: 5045329,38

L1: after the short initial slope, you face a steep vertical wall, generally very rough textured, much like a cauliflower. Sometimes it is the most challenging pitch of the ice climb. 45 metres. Belay on the rock on the right (fix).
L2: climb the entire vertical pillar up to the top with physical and sustained climbing. 55 metres. Belay on the rock right at the end of the vertical section (fix). If you want, you can split this length into two, belaying on rock in a stony ravine at the base of the pillar where the first part of the ice climb ends (fix) ... it goes without saying that the difficulty level is slightly reduced. Sometimes it can be difficult to reach the belay and even more to climb out of it: this is why you should not stop and continue until the end of the vertical section.
L3: easy channel of snow/ice. 25 metres. Belay on rock to the left under a small overhang (fix).
L4: continuation of the channel that bends slightly to the right to get around the icy wall at the base of the final section. 40 metres. Belay on rock on the right (fix).
L5: icy ramp with constant slope, initially the left then to the right, which leads onto the plateau of Money. 55 metres. Belay on a rocky block on the summit’s plateau (fix). In certain years, you can also climb a great column to the right of the path which is normally followed and that leads directly to the summit plateau, with sustained climbing (WI5).

Descent: abseiling down the ice climb using the climb’s anchor points (fix).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.