Climbing - some routes

The wall is clearly visible from the road and is made up of large dihedrals and aretes, some furrowed with cracks and special holes. The climb is more or less technical and there are many ideal routes for beginners or for climbers’ to familiarize with the rock. The anchors are well-set and all routes have been recently re-equipped with stainless steel material. Pay careful attention to cord length on longer routes since the cord could end before safely reaching the ground.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7b+, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 34.

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 110 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Paretone - Arnad.

The wall is clearly visible from the road. The wall is shaped like a rock cupcake made up of ledges on compact rock with typical cracks and grips. The climb is purely face climbing on long routes that require a half a day or more.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays. Climbers mainly walk down the eastern side of the wall or take the path on the north side. You can leave a second car in the Machaby parking lot or abseil down if you don’t make it to the top. This is not recommended since it is more difficult and may hinder other climbers on their way up.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5c to 7a, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 41 + 6 in the case Fara sector.

Average length is 200 meters with a minimum of 35 and maximum of 280 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Gruviera - Arnad.

La parete sorge dove un tempo vi era una cava di pietra ed è caratterizzata da muri molto compatti e verticali, talvolta anche appoggiati, dove lo stile di arrampicata è molto tecnico e “di dita”. Si trovano 2 settori, uno alto adiacente al piazzale dove si parcheggia, e l’altro circa 50 metri più in basso raggiungibile con un breve sentiero.

Si trovano linee di varie difficoltà, dal 4 al 7c, talvolta, come era lo stile di chiodatura all’epoca della sua apertura, con qualche presa scavata o migliorata artificialmente.

L’attività richiede esperienza tecnica, è consigliabile farsi accompagnare da una guida alpina.

Numero totale vie: 28.
Lunghezza media: 15 metri
Difficoltà: da 4 a 7c.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and is made up of short, compact rock walls smoothed by streams during the eras when the Dora Baltea and others flowed in a sort of gulley, carving the potholes still visible at the bottom of some routes. The rock’s rounded features with some cracks and jugs have motivated climbers to bolt the various sectors. It was one of the first walls where endurance was practiced.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 8b, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 71 divided in several sectors.

Average length is 15 meters with a minimum of 8 and maximum of 22 meters.

The Mont Ross wall was created thanks Abele Blanc, a local alpine guide who, with a group of friends who called themselves Croé Bocia, cleaned and bolted all the wall routes in a single season. The rock type is totally different from all the other walls in the Valle d’Aosta since it is dolostone, softer than granite making the climb enjoyable due to the holds and amount of various holds.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7c, average 6b+.

The walls are all visible from the road that leads to Ayas and have always been popular with the local alpine guides. Excellent anchoring with resin pitons never placed far apart. Both beginner and more expert climbers will enjoy this climb since the more difficult routes are graded high.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3c to 7b, average 6b.

Total number of routes: 37.

Average length is 20 meters with a minimum of 10 and maximum of 80 meters.

Wall ascent: follow the paved road closed to traffic that climbs the Urtier valley or take the path that starts behind the hydroelectric power plant. Follow the road or path to the marked curve (sign for the gym) where you can already see the wall. Follow the path over the stones to the wall base. You can also reach the wall on a scenic path that climbs along the famous waterfalls. 15 minutes using the path, 20 minutes following the road, 30 minutes from the waterfalls.

The Lillaz wall has always been a climbing gym for the Cogne alpine guides who bolted and re-bolted it. Climbing is always on ledges and some routes are ideal for beginner climbers even if bolts on easier climbs are sometimes a bit distant. Routes can be climbed on two cords and abseiled down.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Top rope on shorter routes, abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3b to 5c, average 4c.

60 meter long cord recommended.

Wall ascent: follow the dirt road to the Elena hut. Just before the hut, turn left on the path that crosses the bridge over the stream and soon coasts the wall base.

The wall was bolted by the Courmayeur alpine training center in the summers of 1998 and 1999. The first parts of the routes are along a ledge becoming slightly steeper, in central routes, towards the top. There is a belay station every 30 meters where climbers can either abseil or continue. Children should not be left at the base of the routes given the base gradient and possible falling rocks. Normal equipment is required for long sport routes: harness, dynamic rope, quickdraws, descenders, belay device, helmet. Additional quick protections are not necessary.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4a to 6b, average 5b.

Total number of routes: 5

Average length is 200 meters with a minimum of 180 and maximum of 215 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Villair - Courmayeur.

Wall ascent: when you reach the house in ruins, leave the path and continue to your left to the wall.

The wall was anchored by some alpine guides from Courmayeur who did a great job cleaning both the base and the ascent and anchoring and cleaning the wall. Good anchoring in stainless steel material with average distances between pitons. Route style is rather modern.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays and climbers are either belayed or top-roped down on a 60 m cord or on 80 m cords for 2 length ones.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5c to 7c, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 17

Average length is 28 meters with a minimum of 16 and maximum of 42 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Placche di Pré de Bar, Val Ferret - Courmayeur.

Holds are mostly crimps and jugs but there are also backhand and vertical holds, everything you need for an athletic and technical climb. Bolting is good with resin pitons in crags and fixes on vertical routes. Be careful of the exposed natural ledge at the base.

The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 60 meter cords.

Difficulty from 5c to 8c, average 7b. Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 27 meters.

Total number of routes: 31