The Aosta Valley is a paradise for alpinism: the highest mountain ranges in Europe - Mont Blanc, Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn - are classical destinations for mountaineering and mountain lovers can also find in this region a great choice of itineraries.
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Becca d'Oren
Mountaineering routes - BionazDay one
From the Place Moulin dam lot, follow the narrow dirt road around the artificial lake until you see the sign, on you left, for the path to the Col Collon hut. You’ll soon find another dirt road that ends near the Arpeyssaou mountain pasture. At the end of a diagonal, enter Comba d’Oren where the d’Oren and La Garda mountain pastures rise. The sediment ground starts at the end of the pastures. Cross it on the right hugging the left shore of the stream. Following the yellow signs, turn right along the narrow path that climbs over the rocks to the plateau above. You’ll see the Col Collon and Nacamuli huts from the edge which are at the end of a short ramp.
Day two
From the huts, follow the sediment valley to Col Collon (3114 m). From the pass, descent north-west to the Mont Collon glacier and cross it heading West.
The gradient progressively increases and - careful of crevasses - leads under the end skid that you can climb to your left towards the ridge that leads to the top.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Dent d'Hérens
Mountaineering routes - BionazDay one
From the Place Moulin dam log, follow the narrow dirt road that coasts the artificial lake to Prarayer where you will find the hut. From here, continue along the path that crosses the sloping valley floor. After a long shelf - in sight of the hut - the climb starts. A short segment equipped with chains leads to the Aosta hut.
Day two
From the hut, quickly drop to the edge of the moraine (rain gauge) and follow it to the end. The climb on the Grandes Murailles glacier. A steep but short ice wall protects the entrance to the upper plateau which easily leads to the base of Colle di Tiefenmatten on the left. Some of the fixed cords make the climb in the channel that leads to the pass easier. The route is not market by the edge of the ridge on mixed ground: rocks, ledges and snow-covered segments alternate to create a fun and easy climb to the top.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Mont Gelé
Mountaineering routes - BionazDay one
From the village of Rûz follow the unsurfaced country road that runs along the catchment right side of the valley and ends at the Berrier Alpine lodge (2192 m). In some stretches it is still possible to walk along what remains of the pretty path used before the road was built. From the edges of the terrace where the mountain chalets are located, is the start of the path that bends to the left to head off diagonally and cross close to a characteristic rock known as “The Berrio de la Bosse”, where the river gushes from. Carry on until you come to the steep ridge that provides access to the grassy terrace where the Crête Sèche refuge stands.
Day two
From the refuge, the path continues northwards and follows on along the background of the valley before going round some bends that allow you to take the edge of the Plan de la Sabla, where the Franco Spataro (2615m) bivouac encampments is located. Once across the river, follow the plain without pathway until you can take the stony or snowy pass that opens up to the left. At the end of it, you will find the Mont Gelé Pass (3180 m).
From the pass turn right in order to climb back up the slightly steep glacier and, leaving the Col de la Balme on your right, you will come to the rocks that head up towards the ridge. In a short space of time you will come to the peak that offers a magnificent view over the wild Morion hillside and the Vallese peaks.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Matterhorn
Mountaineering routes - Breuil-CerviniaDay one
From Breuil follow the unsurfaced road that leads to Oriondé where the Duca degli Abruzzi Refuge (taxi service available) is located. At the end of the road take the pathway that leads to the Croce Carrel that marks the end of the regional signposting. Carry on, following the red signs and stone figures that indicate the route to the Leone Pass, going across a stream that provides access to the steep slopes under the Testa del Leone. From the pass, the route is marked out by a series of fixed ropes that lead to Capanna Carrel (3835m).
Day two
From the refuge pass a narrow stretch of the ridge that instantly leads to the first fixed rope (Corda della Sveglia) that allows you to pass a beautiful face with horizontal overhang. This takes you onto the southern slope of the Gran Torre, avoiding the edge, heading along the high, smooth rock faces and overhangs on the right; head back up a rocky carving and cross the Vallon des Glaçons recess that will take you, still following the fixed ropes on the left, onto the overhanging terrace. At the end of the fixed ropes move horizontally to the right, in the direction of a narrow horizontal passage between two rocks, that provides access to an attractive walk of 25 metres that can be climbed with the aid of a fixed rope. Follow a horizontal stretch to the right, on crags protected by some fixes. You will then come to the Mauvais Pas ledge, that provides access to the so called Rocher des Ecritures. Once you come to a snowfield, the Linceul, head back up along the left side. Just a little above is the Gran Corda running for about thirty metres that allows you to pass a sheer rock face. Follow the ridge line that leads onto the Pic Tyndall. A horizontal stretch finishes with a deep carving (the Enjambée): cross this fork and put your foot on the summit pyramided of the Cervino where the ridge is once again wide and easy. Once you come to the Testa del Cervino base, follow the fixed rope that leads to the famous Scala Jordan. This rope ladder allows you to pass a cliff rock face that still follows a stretch of fixed rope and comes out just a few metres from the crossing of the Italian peak.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Western Breithorn
Mountaineering routes - Breuil-CerviniaFrom the Cervino Guide Refuge to the Rosà Plateau - accessible from Cervinia via the cable car - you can follow the ski-lift trail on the glacier and, at the end of it, you can continue on the ski slope until you come to the large Breithorn Plateau. From here, turn northwards heading towards the clear glacier slide and keeping an eye on the cervasses. Head up the steep slope, normally moving diagonally from right to left, to reach the snowy ridge trimmed with views on the Swiss side. Finally, turning right, you will touch on the vast peak, excellent panoramic point on the entire group of Mount Rosa, Cervino and Vallese mountains.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Pollux
Mountaineering routes - Champoluc/Ayas/AntagnodDay one
From Saint-Jacques you will come to the village of Blanchard, that you can find at the convergence of the rivers Verra and Courtod, where the Evançon was founded: the path that heads up through the Verra valley starts beyond the bridge. You will then come to the village of Fiery, where the path splits; head to the right and carry on until you come out on the vast lower Pian de Verra (2050m)
Follow the trail of the unsurfaced road that has to be followed until the lowest extremity of the Upper Pian di Verra. Before the pasture head to the left and you will come to a pathway that heads up a steep grassy slope; cross a plateau and this will take you to the edge of the moraine. Following this will take you to the Mezzalama Refuge. From here, carry on to the left around the overhanging rocky crag and getting onto the glacier, passing by the point with the fewest seracs. Carry on through the icy basin moving to the right and heading towards the rocky rib that leads to the Lambronecca Refuge.
Day two
From the Refuge you will come to the valley of the Verra Glacier and head east pointing towards the Castor. Without reaching the Verra Pass, turn left and, gaining some height, you will reach the base of the south-eastern ridge of the Polluce. Overcome the first easy rocks, often covered in snow, that takes you to a projection. This should be avoided on the left; you will then find a chain that helps you overcome some smooth faces. Again with the aid of the chain, carry on along the path that provides access to a saddle. From here, carry on along a small rock face on the left (this is also equipped with a chain) that leads to the shoulder at 3991 m high, to lastly follow the characteristic snowy ridge that leads to the summit.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Roccia Nera
Mountaineering routes - Champoluc/Ayas/AntagnodDay one
From Saint-Jacques you will come to the village of Blanchard, that you can find at the convergence of the rivers Verra and Courtod, where the Evançon was founded: the path that heads up through the Verra valley starts beyond the bridge. You will then come to the village of Fiery, where the path splits; head to the right and carry on until you come out on the vast lower Pian de Verra (2050m)
Follow the trail of the dirt road that has to be followed until the lowest extremity of the Upper Pian di Verra. Before the pasture head to the left and you will come to a pathway that heads up a steep grassy slope; cross a plateau and this will take you to the edge of the moraine. Following this will take you to the Mezzalama Refuge. From here, carry on to the left around the overhanging rocky crag and getting onto the glacier, passing by the point with the fewest seracs. Carry on through the icy basin moving to the right and heading towards the rocky rib that leads to the Lambronecca Refuge.
Day two
From the Refuge you will come to the valley of the Verra Glacier and head east pointing towards the Castor. Before the Pollux ridge, turn to the left and cross almost horizontally towards Porta Nera. On the left of the rise you’ll see the Rossi-Volante camp that you can reach by climbing the snow-covered slope in front of it. Beyond the camp, climb the small rocky rise from which the final slope starts (snow and easy rocks) that leads to the summit ridge. A short shift to the right leads you to the top.
Descent: down the ascent route.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Rosa dei Banchi
Mountaineering routes - ChamporcherFrom Dondena, follow the dirt road that passes near the hut of the same name and continues to the Oratory and Lake Miserin. It winds along the edge of the water to the valley upstream. Find the almost concealed path that climbs the gravel rises to the characteristic rocky mountain plateau. Here, a series of posts leads under the slope of ruins that defends Colle della Rosa. Cross it diagonally from right to left to the pass. Continue along the west ridge that it easy until the base of a clear rocky rise. Climb from the left along the ledge that leads under a diagonal crevasse to the right that leads to the ridge (10 meters at II level). Here, return to the easier route that leads to the top.
Descent: down the ascent route.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
Punta Patrì
Mountaineering routes - CogneFirst day
From Valnontey, follow along the right side of the valley watershed. You’ll find a fork for the Money bivouac after Valmianaz: keep to the left along an easy mule route that starts to climb in hairpin curves to the plateau where the Money cottages stand. From the shelters, start climbing south-east towards the bivouac. Follow the moraine to the end and skirt around the left side of the rocky ledge to the Money bivouac (2,872 m).
Second day
From the bivouac, hike the Coupé Money glacier - being careful of the crevasses – to the East heading for the pass. The southern ridge of the Punta Patri starts here on the left. Skirt around a few unsafe rock piles to your left to reach the 3,507 meter side. Continue almost flat paying attention to the ledges on the Valeille side to the last part of the ridge with the large stacked blocks that leads to the Southern Peak.
Descent along the ascent route.
The route requires alpine climbing experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.
Punta Tersiva
Mountaineering routes - CogneDay one
From the town of Lillaz, follow the signs on the Alta Via n. 2 route for Colle Finestra di Champorcher and the Sogno di Berdzé hut. Hike through the picturesque Urtier valley, heading east, to the hut at altitude 2,526 meters.
Day two
From the hut, you must go back down the Urtier valley along the farm road to the bridge over the stream, just before the Pianas pasture (2406 m). Cross the stream and climb towards the Invergneux pasture (2518 m), continuing towards the Invergneux pass (2905 m) at the base of Punta Tersiva’s south-west ridge.. Climb the wide and gentle rock and stone ridge to the point where it’s best to leave the path to the left to the Tessonet glacier. Easily cross the glacier heading for a short and steeper slope of snow and rock leading to Colletto della Tersiva, open at the base of the North North-West ridge. Climb up the snow-covered ridge with scattered rocks to the top.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.