Punta Tersiva
Resorts: Cogne
Punta Tersiva, or Punta Dorère, closes the top of the Grauson valley that is an off-shoot of Valle di Cogne. It peaks where the Grauson, Clavalité and Urtier valleys meet. The mountain looks like a pyramid from any angle. The small Tessonnet glacier rests at the base of the north-west wall.
When the Grauson camp was still erected, climbers usually ascended along this valley. Now that that camp is gone (burnt down), the Sogno di Berdzé hut is used and the route crosses the Invergneux pass.
Technical information
How to get here
Aosta Ovest highway exit. Continue along the Valle di Cogne road. You’ll reach the town of Lillaz, after the main town, where you can park.
Description of the route
Day one
From the town of Lillaz, follow the signs on the Alta Via n. 2 route for Colle Finestra di Champorcher and the Sogno di Berdzé hut. Hike through the picturesque Urtier valley, heading east, to the hut at altitude 2,526 meters.
Day two
From the hut, you must go back down the Urtier valley along the farm road to the bridge over the stream, just before the Pianas pasture (2406 m). Cross the stream and climb towards the Invergneux pasture (2518 m), continuing towards the Invergneux pass (2905 m) at the base of Punta Tersiva’s south-west ridge.. Climb the wide and gentle rock and stone ridge to the point where it’s best to leave the path to the left to the Tessonet glacier. Easily cross the glacier heading for a short and steeper slope of snow and rock leading to Colletto della Tersiva, open at the base of the North North-West ridge. Climb up the snow-covered ridge with scattered rocks to the top.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.