Sport Itineraries: Valtournenche

The walls are all visible from the road that leads to Cervinia and are made of green rock (serpentinous), smoothed in some parts by glaciers. For this reason, it is hard to find holds on steeper walls except for the cracks typical of this rock. Climbers will find both easy and difficult walls and faces with athletically challenging climbs. These walls have always been climbing gyms for the Cervino alpine guides, many of whom trained for the more challenging “Gran Becca” climb. Multi-pitch routes are set for modern climbs and never too easy. The most interesting sectors are the gym and ledge sectors, the Gouffres di Bousserailles sector and the large wall.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 3c to 7b+, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 59 in different sectors.

Average length is 20 meters with a minimum of 8 and maximum of 130 meters.

It is one of the classic, medium difficulty ice climbs in the valley; fairly crowded as it features a simple approach and does not have any particular dangers. It consists of numerous steps, some vertical, interspersed by easy connecting stretches: level WI4 not much sustained.

Level: II/4
Length: 200 m
First ascent: A. Cambiolo, R. Lale, T. Sergi 1993
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,61756 Lat.: 45,855389 - UTM (ED50) - X: 392758,87 Y: 5079108,27

L1: ice ramp followed by a wall. Belay on ice next to the free-standing.
L2: vertical free-standing. Belay to the tree up on the right (ropes).
L3: easy cliffs, a little to the left. Belay to the tree (ropes).
Short 50-metre transfer to the left.
L4: ramp to the left (be careful of the fringes over your head!). Belay to the tree at the change of direction.
L5: nice articulated wall followed by a final ramp. Belay at the tip of the tree.

Descent: two solutions, abseiling or on foot. In the first case, abseil from a tree (ropes) located on the left side bank of the ice climb and rappel along the fringes that flank the last jump. Run the connecting stretch in the reverse direction on foot and abseil the second time from a sapling with ropes and maillon: go down onto another tree with ropes and maillon on the right bank at the side of the base of the free-standing of the second pitch. One last rappel allows returning to the base.
You can also walk down making a wide semi-circle on the left side bank of the slope (steep forest) until you intersect the continuation of the path being approached: through this, to the right, you will return back under the vertical of the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

From Valmartin, in Valtournenche, where the paved road ends, take Alta Via 1, which gains considerable altitude among the pastures and after crossing the woods, and after a diagonal slope, leads to several buildings of the hydroelectric power station (Promoron). From here you come to Alpe Falegnon and continue into the valley along the hillside, until you come to the foot of the artificial barrier. At this point, you go up to the right until you are above the barrier; cross it to reach the Barmasse refuge.

Leave the car in the car park in Barmaz, in Valtournenche, then continue along the dirt track as far as Cheneil. Then take route 31 (on this initial section, route 31 corresponds to Alta Via 1), until you reach a crossroad. Leave the AV1 and take route 31 on the right, which leads to Col Fontana Fredda. From here, continue left up to the Clavalité Sanctuary, built in 1970 and dedicated to Saint Dominic Savio.

After reaching Barmaz, in the municipality of Valtournenche, leave the car in the car park and continue along the dirt road until you reach Château (a small cross has been erected here, in memory of the Abbé Aimé Gorret. Tradition has it that Abbé Gorret and Edward Whymper, famous early mountain climbers, used to stop to rest in Valtournenche. Then take trail no. 26 which rises slightly and leads out onto a beautiful green basin (2300m).
After the basin, the trail gets steeper, goes over a rocky leap and enters a small channel next to the stream, finally leading onto a large grassy basin called Pâturage de l’Aran (2660m).
Continue along the trail until you reach a crossroad. Leave route 29 on the right for Mount Roisetta and continue along the left branch, no. 26, which goes up the side to Becca d’Aran.

Leave the car in the Plain Maison ski-lift car park, and follow the paved road (signposted 15) into the sports centre tunnel. At a left-hand bend, take the path, still marked 15, which goes off to the right. After a short section on the paved road, at the Cime Bianche hotel, turn right again onto the path that leads up, and, after a few bends, goes past Alpe Vieille and comes to Tsa Vieille. From here you soon come to a bar, from where you turn left into the private road and go down to the ski-lift arrival station.

You can reach the village of Champlève from Valtournenche in 8/10 minutes by car or by a comfortable mini-bus, available during the summer season. In Champlève you will find an equipped pic-nic area and a playground park for children. At the bottom of the flat path just after the pic-nic area you will take on the right the path n. 32 light downhill into the wood. This was the start point of the first chairlift of Valtournenche towards the village. From here you will have a very nice view on the valley and on the mountains and you will reach the village of Promindoz in about 30 minutes. To return back to Champlève you can also walk on the paved road.

The Church was built as a memorial to the dead of the Battaglione Alpini Sciatori Monte Cervino (Matterhorn Ski Battalion) and can be easily seen from the village if you look towards the Matterhorn (at night it is also illuminated). You reach the church along a wide and easy trail, mainly on farm roads, from the tennis courts at the end of the village. A small car-park is available here. Follow the yellow signs for no.13, the same trail that leads you to the Oriondé/Duca degli Abruzzi Refuge at the foot of the Matterhorn. On the left of the Church there is a large cross in deal wood as a reminder of the celebration of Holy Mass by Pope John Paul II on 19 July 1991 and on a nearby rock there is a bronze plaque commemorating the event. From here you can enjoy a marvellous view of the village and the valley.

From Crépin, in the municipality of Valtournenche, veer right through the houses and take mule track 7, in the upper section of the village. As you climb you comet to a cross the private road several times, until you reach Tomaley and Liortère. From here, you soon reach the dirt track, which goes up; follow this until you go past Vachère. After a left-hand bend, continue along path 7 on the right, which takes you to Croux de Tsa and Col Finestra di Cignana. Now follow route 7 on the left (sections of which are rather exposed), which goes up the steep grassy slopes of the western side, and leads to the highest peak of Mont Pancherot, near which you will also find a forest bivouac.

You will start from the J.A.Carrel square, near the congress centre and the sport centre direction village of Cretaz. After the playground for children on the right and the small church on the left you will arrive in one of the oldest village where you will see a very small square with fountain and the birth house of the famous Matterhorn mountain guide Luigi Carrel called “Carellino”, the “Rascard” and”Grenier”, typical buildings of the Aosta valley and many typical renovated houses. When you will arrive at the top of the village you will see an old but recently renovated mill. On the left the trail of the “Alta Via” n.1 leads to Cheneil village, while the road to the Belvedere is marked with the trail sign n. 34 direction Chamois on the right. You will pass the bridge, admire the small and fresh stream waterfalls, and go into the wood. After about 10 minutes you will reach some bridges where you can admire a wonderful view over the valley and over the village of Valtournenche. After about 30 minutes walk you will reach the village of Servaz with several recently renovated houses. From here you can return back to the village or reach in about 30 minutes the village of Pessey “di Piole” known as “Belvedere” at the Lake of Maen. From here you will have another beautiful view on the village and the Grandes Murailles chain. By following the road you will reach the village of Chamois!

This trail begins at the end of the residential area of Crétaz, a hamlet near Pâquier (municipal seat of Valtournenche) and is a section of the Alta Via 1.
The mule track goes up into a thick larch and broad-leaf wood until it meets a road from the left that connects Muranche with Falinère. Cross this road and go up to Alpe Promindoz (1850 m), on a panoramic grassy plateau. Further up the larch wood you come to the basin of Cheneil.
This was once the only access route to this beautiful basin; now the paved road has been rebuilt that goes right up to Cheneil.
From Cheneil continue along the same route past Alpe Champsec (2328 m) and, after a long crossing, you come to Col des Fontaines (2695 m). Cross sparse pastures descending about 60 metres altitude, then continue on level ground until you reach the upper extremity of the Chamois valley. From here, you start climbing again until you come to Col de Nana.

When you get to the Plan Maison arrival station, continue on the dirt road no. 15 until you get to a crossroad. Take the left branch, formerly trail AV3, first along the road and then a path, among high-altitude meadows. Go over several humps and an area littered with large rocks and numerous springs. The hike continues upwards towards the glacial moraines of the southern side of the Matterhorn, until you reach a pretty deep blue lake a short distance from the refuge. Now take the path, the usual ascent passage of Matterhorn, which goes up towards the west, above the refuge and then goes over a rocky spur. Continue northwards until you get to Croce Carrel, in memory of the glorious Valdostan guide.

Hiking itinerary to the refuge (outward journey: approx. 1 hour, 45 min)
Itinerary for expert hikers from the refuge to Croce Carrel

This is a medium difficulty itinerary, in that, despite being fairly easy, the trail is rather long. Leave from Crétaz, one of the more characteristic villages of Valtournenche and take route 34, which heads south on level ground, crossing the villages of Servaz and Pessey (Belvedere). After this villages, the trail winds its way through woods, providing occasional, breathtaking glimpses of Valtournenche and Mount Cervino. When you get close to the residential area of Chamois, descend down to it, or go up, turning left at a “crossroad” until you come to Lac Lod (2033 m).

This route begins as you leave the village of Crétaz, a short way from Pâquier (main centre of the municipality of Valtournenche), and is part of the whole route of the Alta Via no. 1
The mule track climbs through a dense wood of larch trees and broad-leaved trees until it meets the road from the left which connects Muranche with Falinère. You go across it and climb up to the Promindoz pasture (m 1850), located on a grassy panoramic plateau. Continuing uphill through the larch wood you come to the Cheneil hollow.
In the past this was the only way to get to this highly beautiful hollow; now a carriageable road has been built which almost reaches Cheneil.

From Pâquier (municipal seat) take the paved road on the left that leads to Crépin. When you get to this hamlet, go past the chapel dedicated to Saints Crispin and Crispinian (with a fresco depicting the legend of Saint Theodulus and the devil), and at a crossroad take route towards Proz (1676 m). Continue along the same route until you come to Gouffres de Busserailles, a ravine that can be visited, 104 m long and 35 m deep, dug into the mountain by the force of the waters of the Marmore.

After leaving the car in the car park at Barma, in Valtournenche, you soon reach a dirt track in Cheneil (you can reach the hamlet on foot in about 2.5 hours leaving from Crétaz along Alta Via 1). Take route 30 which first goes into a wood, then continues across meadows and moraines, until it comes to Col de Tournalin.
Take the trail on the left, not signposted, and the trail along the trail along the crest, which is very exposed. You then come to a plate of rock 8 metres long, which you climb with the aid of a rope.
Continue for 50 m until you come to the summit of Grand Tournalin, where you can admire Mount Cervino and Mount Rosa.
On this itinerary, you meet several crossroads with other trails: ignore these trails and keep to route 30,which leads up to Col de Tournalin.

After reaching Barmaz, in the municipality of Valtounenche, leave the car in the car park and continue along the dirt road until you reach Château (a small cross has been erected here, in memory of the Abbé Aimé Gorret. Tradition has it that Abbé Gorret and Edward Whymper, famous early mountain climbers, used to stop here to rest). Then take trail no. 26 which rises slightly and leads out onto a beautiful green basin (2300m).
After the basin, the trail gets steeper, goes over a rocky leap and enters a small channel next to the stream, finally leading onto a large grassy basin called Pâturage de l’Aran (2660m).
Continue along the trail until you reach a crossroad. Leave trail no. 26 on the left for Becca d’Aran and continue along the right branch of trail 29 which enters the glacial valley between Mount Roisetta (to the north) and Grand Tournalin (to the south).
At this point, turn left to reach a saddle and then, continuing along the trail you come to the peak of Mount Roisetta, from where you have a wonderful view of the Mount Rosa range.

Mont Pancherot is one of the best panoramic viewpoints in the whole of Valtournenche. As you stand on the top, the view sweeps from Cervino to Mont Rosa up and down the valley. When you get to the hamlet of Perrères (within the municipality of Valtournenche, 4 km before getting to Breuil-Cervinia), leave the car in the car park and take the private road (trail sign 8) which crosses the Marmore stream. Cross it, and ignoring the sloping path going up to the pastures, take trail 107 on the right that goes up to meet the private road that you left beforehand and continue along it for a few hundred metres until you get to Olucs. From here, the trail rises in long diagonal slopes, and goes through Grillon, Tsa de Grillon and Colle Finestra di Cignana. Now follow route 7 on the left (sections of which are rather exposed), which goes up the steep grassy slopes of the western side, and leads to the highest peak of Mont Pancherot, near which you will also find the Giuseppe Osella forest bivouac.

When you get to the hamlet of Perrères (within the municipality of Valtournenche, 4 km before getting to Breuil-Cervinia), leave the car in the car park and take path No. 35 / 107 which rises in long diagonal slopes, and goes through Grillon, Tsa de Grillon and lastly Colle Finestra di Cignana. Now descend until you come to the dirt road that comes from the Cignana dam. Follow this for around 250 m, and then, near Alpe Cignana, take trail 35, which goes off to the right and rises, amidst some wonderful, breathtaking landscapes, to the Manenti Bivouac on the banks of Lake Balanselmo. Continue along the trail to the Perucca-Vuillermoz refuge on the banks of Mont Dragon Lake.

When you get to the Plan Maison arrival station, take the dirt road signposted 15 which crosses the alpine meadows, over the winter ski slopes and goes up to Bontadini Chapel. Continue along this trail, over moraine terrain and spots of snow, until you come to the Teodulo refuge on the hill of the same name.

The path starts at the arrival of the cableway Valtournenche (Plan de la Glaea) – Salette, turning on the left side and following the track n.107 (Grande Balconata del Cervino) in direction Breuil-Cervinia. After around 1 hour you will find a crossroads, that, on the right side following the path n. 65 (Sentiero J.A. Carrel), will lead you at the chapel in about 20 minutes. Along the way, it is possible to buy dairy products directly to the mountain pasture.

From the parking lot downstream from the town of Cheneil, follow the summer path that quickly leads to the small village. Climb along the sparse woods heading South-East to altitude 2,300 m and cross over the rocky ramparts heading towards Gran Tournalin. Continue along the unmarked route among the canyons and valleys, heading directly for the peak.

From the parking area cross the street and take the path for the ferrata and the rif. Barmasse (signs). Go up the path and after about fifteen minutes you will come to a fork in the road near a heap of stones. Take the steep part (sign indicating “via ferrata”) that will quickly take you to the climbing area, to the left. (To the right you can see the fully equipped easy descending trail). You cross to the left until you reach a really nice wall of the spur that takes you up towards a series of amusing plaques, with good footholds. There are a series of shorter walls that take you to a dihedral and then to a transverse to the right that leads to a Tibetan bridge, short but in mid-air.
The passage to the entrance of the bridge, about 2 meters, is very intense. What you need to overcome it is simply good climbing techniques or strong arms. After the bridge you continue on a smaller wall that smoothly goes all the way up to the spur’s peak.
You continue on the path. There are a few brief fun parts in the woods that lead to the descent. Continue to the right on a winding path, almost always equipped with ropes, very useful in case it rains. There is another descending fork in the road. The ferrata continues to the right whilst another easier ferrata is to the left. The two trails join together and both take to the heap of stones and then from there to the trail where you started out from.