Sport Itineraries: Valsavarenche

Wall ascent: from the parking lot, head towards the stream and follow the path to the wall.

The wall is clearly visible from the road and made up of ledges on the field at the base. For this reason, the Valsavarenche administrators believed in the alpine guides and funded the bolting and access path creation. The wall is mainly for free climbing but there are cracks typical of granite that help aided climbing. These walls are between average and high mountain heights but the micro climate created on sunny days lets you climb wearing a t-shirt. About 15 minutes to the left is a 7 length route with maximum 5c difficulty rating called “facing paradise” where you can add fast protections for more safety. Stainless steel bolting is excellent.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops include chains and belays or Munter hitches. Climbers are either belayed down on a 60 m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4b to 6c+, average 5c.

Total number of routes: 27

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 75 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Parete delle Guide a Pont - Valsavarenche.

Together with Rovenaud, it is definitely the most frequented waterfall of Valsavarenche, often connected with the latter (after moving by car). The very quick and easy access, the good conditions over a long time and the not particularly serious dangers have made this slide successful. However, watch out for critical snow conditions as the risk of avalanches is not entirely excluded, especially at the end of the season: this issue obviously applies to many waterfalls deemed safe.
The following is a description of the shortest path, which is also the easiest, located on the right bank of the main jump.
You can also go along the left bank (the right, seen from below) with two significant lengths of continuing difficulty, a little more than the classic route: in this case the first pitch ends right at a rocky ledge (belay to fix), whereas the second pitch connects at the top to the third pitch of the opposite side.

Level: II/4
Length: 80 m
First ascent: A. Cambiolo, P. Sartore 1988
Altitude: 1950 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,20865 Lat.: 45,541142 - UTM (ED50) - X: 360232,25 Y: 5044826,41

L1: easy icy ramp, a little to the left. Belay on the rock on the left (fix).
L2: move to the right and face the considerable icy jump with a constant slope and just short vertical sections. Belay at the top left in an easy rocky ravine (fix).
L3: exit right from the niche and climb the short vertical column, after which you traverse an easy icy ramp. Belay to the right on a rock (fix). Most roped parties descend from this point.
L4: almost never negotiated, it allows you to leave the difficulties and reach the old road to Nivolet which stands a little above. Belay on tree at the top at the end of the difficult stretch.

Descent: abseiling along the route using the anchors present on both sides (fixes).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is a super classic of the Valsavarenche area which is usually crowded. Two fairly long walls with different exposure separated by a short connecting trail; all embedded in a great recess but not too much. Given its easy access, it is often linked (before or after) with the other classic of the valley: Antares.

Level: II/4
Length: 150 m
First ascent: S. De Leo, F. Toldo 1984
Altitude: 1550 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,20453 Lat.: 45,613438 - UTM (ED50) - X: 360090,17 Y: 5052865,52

L1: it is a long slide initially vertical for a few metres then inclined up to the end. Belay at the upper left (fix).
Sinuous connecting stretch down to the base of the characteristic second jump recessed among the rocks.
L2: wide continuous wall that is climbable either on the left or right, but more elegant if done in a single length, even if there are belays with fixes on both sides to climb it in two pitches. Belay on rock at the top, just beyond a short prominence (fix).
From here you can abseil down. To leave the ice climb and descend on foot, you still have to walk down a short icy slope, after which head left towards the woods where you will find the footpath.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb from the end of the hard parts (back along the stretch between the first and second jump) or along the more impressive path on the right bank which easily leads to the start point. In this case, continue to climb an easy icy slope to reach the forest slope that runs along the top of the ice climb. Head North horizontally (right bank) until you find the trail of an easy path winding down toward the base of the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

At Eaux-Rousses, in the municipality of Valsavarenche, take trail AV2. This itinerary crosses (towards the right) a grassy meadow and enters a conifer wood where it starts to climb gently in diagonal bends. It then comes out onto open pastures, and winds slightly among the last larch trees, then comes out onto a grassy crage which leads onto the Orvieilles plain. Here you will ifnd the hunting lodge of King Victor Emmanuel II, now the park guard’s lodge. Go past this structure and the trail continues on the left on open ground touching the Djouan alp, then goes up large pastures and past a few alpine lakes. The trail then climbs steeply, winding towards the right, at the base of a modest rocky wall, and the final diagonal bend takes you to Col Entrelor.

From the village of Eaux Rousses, a hamlet near the municipal seat of Valsavarenche, cross the bridge over the stream and take the path that goes up over the meadows. You then come to sparse woods until you reach the long plateau, where you find the pasture of Levionaz Inferiore, next to the lodge of the National Park Gran Paradiso and a votive chapel. After going across the entire plateau and crossing the stream, the path climbs steeply, first across meadow and then over stone ground, and finally leads to Col Loson.

The path starts from Vers Le Bois hamlet, follows route n.8 or 8b and runs along the historical mule track towards the former royal hunting house of Orvieille.
The itinerary starts with a flat path and after a hairpin bend continues on the left slightly uphill in a beautiful larch and fir forest.
After around 25 minutes we will reach a clearing in the wood from where you can have a beautiful view on the Bioula peak and towards the bottom of the valley.
Along the path, especially in autumn, you could come across the chamois and the ibex.

From the big car park in Pont hamlet cross the stream and take the easy path n.1 that following the right bank of the torrent arrives to Tetras Lyre mountain hut.
The mountain hut can be reached in approximately 15 minutes and is located on the path that goes up to Vittorio Emanuele II mountain hut in a wide green clearing in the middle of a larch forest.
On foot you can come back to Pont following the left bank of the stream.

When you get to Pont, in Valsavarenche, near the restaurant take the trail that climbs steeply up through larch woods and rocky crags, until you reach the wonderful panoramic point, on which stands Croce Roley (2314 m). From here, shortly afterwards you come to a crossroad. Continue on the left along the same route (3) which goes into the valley of Dora del Nivolet. The path then goes along a grassy plateau and passes next to the pastures of Grand Collet and Nivolet. It then joins a dirt road and shortly afterwards becomes paved. This leads to Col Nivolet near the lakes of the same name and the Savoia and Chivasso refuges.

After leaving the car in the small dirt parking lot on the right, just before the beginning of the road that should have connected Pont with Ceresole, take the path n.4 which, on that same gravel road, goes up along hairpin bends almost until 2000 m.
From here the road continues straight on passing under a tunnel and when the road ends you must continue on the trail that reaches Meyes Desot mountain pastures at 2282 m.

When you get to Pont, the highest hamlet in Valsavarenche, near the restaurant take the trail that climbs steeply up through larch woods and rocky crags, until you reach the wonderful panoramic point, on which stands Croce Roley (2314 m). Continue from here and, after a short while, take trail 3A on the right, after crossing the stream, then go up over green meadows, then, after the dirt road, over large rocks covered in lichen. When you get to the crossroad, take the left trail, and after a few hundred metres, turn right and head for the park guard’s lodge, and then the Alpe Plan Borgno, at the start of the plateau of the same name.

From the car park in Pont, the highest hamlet of Valsavarenche, cross the stream over a bridge and continue to the right on the private road. After a few hundred metres, take trail 1 on the left and continue gently up to the pasture. Now the path bends to the left and starts to climb more steeply, first through larch woods, then through green pastures alternating with stone ground, until it reaches the Vittorio Emanuele II refuge.

Go past the Gran Paradiso campsite, in the municipality of Valsavarenche, and you come to Praviou, where you park the car and cross a bridge over the Savara. Here you take route 5 which goes into a thick wood and immediately starts winding up to the pastures of Lavassey (2194 m). Continue on the right from here, again on route 5, among the thinning larch trees which gradually make way for wide green pastures that lead up in long diagonal strips to the Chabod refuge.

The itinerary runs entirely on gravel road, on the left bank of Savara stream. The path starts from Fenille hamlet, passes Bois de Clin and Rovenaud hamlets and reaches Dégioz village.
The descriptive panels along the route allow you to discover different aspects of the surrounding area.
Along the path you can visit the Rovenaud Visitor Centre Water and Biodiversity, a spot dedicated to scientific research of aquatic ecosystems and otters. In Dégioz the Visitor centre of Gran Paradiso National Park is dedicated to the lynx and the wolf.

From the big parking lot in Pont hamlet, the highest one in Valsavarenche, go behind the hotel restaurant and take the path n.3 that goes up in a sparse larch forest and, after several hairpin bends, reaches the Roley Cross. This wooden cross is located on a rocky spur at the beginning of Nivolet plateau and dominates the valley floor offering a *privileged view on Gran Paradiso massi*f that stands on the other side of the valley.

From the Vittorio Emanuele II refuge, in Valsavarenche, take route 1A, which cuts across the hillside, until you reach a crossroad. Here, follow the branch of the trail on the right, and you come to Chabod refuge.

Technical difficulty: medium
Physical difficulty: medium
Bike-friendly: 100%
Type of route: mixed asphalt, dirt, path

The starting point is located in Fenille along the Valsavarenche Regional Road.

Leaving the car in the large car park alongside the Regional Road at the tunnel exit, cross the bridge leading to the Fenille village where you can fill up your flasks and begin the excursion. The route starts by alternating between stretches of woodland and areas of mountain pasture before reaching the charming village of Bois de Clin. When you get to the asphalt path, continue to the right along an uphill path that allows you to travel through the village before continuing again on the dirt path in a woodland stretch. On emerging from the woods, the village of Rovenaud will come into view on the other bank of the river.
Continue until you reach the Ran River and cross it. From here, a downhill stretch leads close to an old mill, beyond which an asphalt stretch of the old, simple regional road begins. Travelling a few hundred metres along this regional road, before it crosses the river, continue straight along the dirt path, crossing a stream and starting to climb up towards the incredible beautiful wood. After crossing a little bridge, descend for a short stretch and after a few ups and downs you reach an asphalt road that goes up on the right towards Vers le Bois. Here you have the opportunity to attempt a slightly more demanding but extremely fascinating trip towards the Orvieille farmhouses.
Passing through the village, go down along a stretch of path that brings you back along the asphalt road. Once you have crossed this, you take the farm track that runs alongside the stream and continue along the Nordic ski slope that without crossing the river, alternating between uphill and downhill paths takes you as far as the asphalt road that descends from the village of Créton. Following this municipal road takes you to the built-up area of Créton, that due to its elevated position offers a fantastic view over the valley and the villages of Nex and Tignet located on the opposite side. On reaching the little road that enters the village (water), you follow it to the end and take the path that descends towards the valley beyond the stream. Once you have reached the right bank of the river, continue along the farm track that comes out at the foot of Vers le Bois and turn right towards the major village of Dégioz (water), passing in front of the football fiels and the Town Hall. After passing the regional road, go uphill towards the church. At the first turn leave the asphalt again, taking the old road that after a flat stretch becomes a slightly sloping path until before coming to the bridge, you reach the new regional road. After having covered a few hundred metres of this road, go back along the road taken on the outward journey and continue in the opposite direction towards Bois de Clin and Fenille.

Day one
From Pont, take the flat mule track that crosses the river with a wooden bridge. Carry along the flat for about a hundred metres, then start to climb upwards winding initially through a forest, then in the open air. After an initial steep stretch, the slope becomes more gentle and the bends wider, until you come to the Vittorio Emanuele II Refuge (2732 m).

Day two
From the Refuge, climb the steep moraine above the lake and enter the valley that leads to the Gran Paradiso hill. Once on the plateau, behind the moraine peak, continue on the well-marked route for about two hundred metres and follow the posts that drop to the right towards the tip of the Ciarforon glacier. At about 2,900 metre altitude.
Climb the glacier to the marked Ciarforon slope crossing diagonally to the left if particularly icy.
From the slope, head for the rocky ridge staying on the North side to a narrow and steep ice funnel (some anchored cords and belay stations, check solidity).
You can also reach the same rise from the opposite side (South) going behind the rock and climbing up a the narrow channel and easy stones.
From the rise at altitude 3,400, climb on the edge of the ridge on the North side on the rocks with short II/III level passes.
Once you reach the snowy gap at the base of the ice cap, climb to your left along the edge of the rocks and, once you’ve surpassed them, walk in a arch to your left to avoid the sheer face.
Descent: down the ascent route.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From Pont, take the flat mule track that crosses the river with a wooden bridge. Carry along the flat for about a hundred metres, then start to climb upwards winding initially through a forest, then in the open air. After an initial steep stretch, the slope becomes more gentle and the bends wider, until you come to the Vittorio Emanuele II Refuge (2732 m).
Day two
From the Refuge, take the path that heads to the left across stony ground. The path will quickly turn into a trail that leads onto the rocky plateau closed in by the last offshoots of the Becca di Moncorvé ridge and the crag that includes the Testa di Moncorvé. The Gran Paradiso glacier starts at the end of the plain. Once you have put on your crampons, climb up the terracing until you come to the Schiena d’Asino snowy hump, divider between the Moncorvé and the Laveciau glaciers. Following the hump south-eastwards, carry on until you come to the flat area of the Becca di Moncorvé Pass. From here, head to the left to climb the standard frozen slope that ends under the terminal crevasses; once past the obstacle, you will reach the easy rocks on the south-eastern ridge. There is one last passage, easy but exposed (fix protection), that provides access to the terrace where the statue of the Madonna stands.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

After leaving your car, you cross the Savara Torrent over a small wooden bridge; you turn right and start to climb towards an isolated building. Go past the building and you meet the summer path which you join in order to reach the Alpe Praviou in a short time. You continue going uphill along the beautiful mule track with splendidly-built, dry-stone walls which run alongside it; following an “endless” series of turns you climb up through the larch-tree wood until you reach a short flat section just over 2000 m. Here the woods begins to become less dense, providing some interesting views over Valsavarenche until you come to Lavassey where you find the Park Rangers’ station and some unusual Alpine pastures with their characteristic half-cask shape. You go through Lavassey passing the station on the left and start to climb the slope, which becomes very steep after leaving the last trees behind. Gradually you enter the high part of the Valley of Savolère, as the Gran Paradiso appears before you in all its splendour. Slowly the climb becomes less arduous, as you walk alongside the spurs of the Côte Savolère and then you practically come to the foot of the refuge. You turn left and climb up across the mountainside until you at last come to the Federico Chabod refuge.

Take pathway (8) leading to Vers le Bois.
Take the wide Royal Hunting Road and straightaway you will come across the roadsigns that indicate the entrance to the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. The pathway starts off on level ground, then after 5 minutes it turns sharp left and starts climbing the slope that lies beneath the Fourquin de Bioula. You continue to climb gently through the fir woods. After about 25 minutes, the woods open out near a vast landslide that fell from the overhanging peaks in the distant past. This “fissure” allows us to catch a glimpse of the Fourquin de la Bioula and at the end of the valley Mont Fallère, the Costa Tardiva and the Pointe de Chaligne. You continue walking along this wide, easy mule-track which leads you southwards on a fairly even path, and it is not uncommon to bump into a chamois or steinbock along the way. You leave the woods and make your way across a dangerous section where avalanche couloirs are quite evident. Once past this crossing, you finally come into the level clearing lying in front of the Royal Hunting Lodge (now a Park Ranger Station), which you reach in a few minutes (2165 m.).

From the parking lot, follow the level central valley heading South. After the first flat part (careful of any avalanches from the steep side peaks), the route starts to climb to the Grand Etret glacier. The second part is steeper to the hill.
From the hill you can also quickly cross the ridge to Testa del Grand Etret.
Descent down the upward itinerary.

Day one:
Park your car in the town of Terrè, at the sign and lot for the Chabod hut. Cross the bridge following the summer path and climb the steep woods. At the Lavassey alp, continue climbing to your right following the summer path. The woods thin out and, leaving the Costa di Savolere on your right, keep to your left to the Chabod hut standing at the end of the moraine.
Day two:
From the hut, descend to the valley below and then climb to the moraine just above. Follow it to the right to the glacier. Cross the glacier following the glacier hollows to avoid the crevasses. At the pasture above, at about 3,250 m, move to the right of the glacier and follow the clear valley that leads to Becca di Moncorvé. Turn left crossing under the rocky ridge and head for the hill. Take off your skis and follow the ridge to reach the top. The last 10 metres of the ridge are highly exposed.
Descent down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.