Giavin Icefall
Ice climbing - ChamporcherThe symbolic ice climb of Vallone della Legna is definitely the most spectacular. It is generally divided into two parallel solutions: the easier one on the left and the more difficult one on the right, normally with a technical degree of difference. Both lines can be climbed in two lengths belaying on ice halfway (there are old spits that you should avoid using) or – more elegantly – in a 60-metre length (handle the friction of the ropes well).
Level: II/4-5
Length: 60 m
First ascent: F. Conta, F. Scazzoli 1986, left line
Altitude: 1450 m
Exposure: North
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,63 Lat.: 45,60735 - UTM (ED50) - X: 393252,05 Y: 5051534,14
Left line (WI4) : initial stretch of petal and cauliflower texture followed by a short vertical pillar up to an impressive plateau, hence a gradually less inclined ramp from left to right leads to the end of the difficulty.
Right line (WI5) : significant sequence of two big free-standings separated halfway by a ledge where you can belay on ice. The first part is generally more technical due to the large medusas and short overhanging passages.
For both lines, belay at the top to the tree (ropes).
Descent: a 60-metre abseil from the tree on the summit (ropes and maillon).
Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.