Heritage: Gressoney-Saint-Jean

Dopo il Natale fervono i preparativi per festeggiare l’arrivo del Capodanno (Nujoahr).
In ogni casa si preparano i “chiechene”, dolci tradizionali (vedere ricette), che si offrono a coloro che vengono ad augurare buon anno.
E’ tradizione che il 31 dicembre in chiesa, durante la funzione religiosa di fine anno, i fedeli cantano tutti assieme il “Nujoahrslied”: il canto augurale del buon anno.
Ma altre tradizioni, tipicamente walser, di buon augurio per l’anno nuovo, vengono tutt’ora mantenute:
durante la notte di San Silvestro gruppi di cantori, di ogni età, passano di casa in casa, di amici e conoscenti, cantando il “Nujoahrslied”; invece il primo giorno dell’anno sono i bambini del paese che vanno ad augurare il buon anno ad amici e parenti, ricambiati da questi, come da usanza, con la strenna.

In addition to a particular lifestyle, Walser brought their language too. It is a variant of the Alemannian dialect, the most ancient stock among the German dialect groups.
This dialect is still spoken by the local population: it is taught in schools to young kids, but the Walser Cultural Centre also organises Titsch courses periodically, open to everybody, no matter their language level.

Inaugurated in December 2014, Casa Capriata is a wholly original structure, built on three levels and raised above the ground - a modern reinterpretation of the Walser architecture of the upper Gressoney valley. It was designed in 1954 by the Turin-born architect Carlo Mollino and was completed 60 years later thanks to a group of researchers from Turin‘s Polytechnic University.

The original plan was first shown at the Vetroflex Domus competition (1951) and later at the 10th Milan Triennale (1954), as a manifesto for technical innovation and prefabricated building. His idea was to create a building with low energy consumption, by eliminating the use of fossil fuels and by experimenting with innovative materials and construction techniques.

In 2006 a small group of researchers from Turin’s Polytechnic University, from which Mollino had graduated in 1931, revived the original plan which was consigned to the history by this leading figure in Italian architecture. Their aim? To highlight its value and relevance today, through analysing different variations of the same idea and through using modern technical solutions to which the research by the Piedmontese architect has always been strongly drawn.

The Mollino Refuge, the name given to the Casa Capriata in honour of its creator, sits 2100 metres above sea level, in the heart of the ski resort of Weissmatten. It can be reached on foot, on skis or even by chairlift, and currently serves as a bar/restaurant. Nestled in the calm of the Alps, this architecture can be admired in the very way Carlo Mollino would have liked. Speaking about his design, he said that, “I am convinced that the best explanation of one’s own work is given by the silent exhibition of the work itself.”

The Valle del Lys, like other mountain valleys that surround the Monte Rosa, was populated, up until the Middel Ages, by a population of Germanic origins coming from the Upper Vallese:the Walser.This population, beginning from the middle of the XIII century, crossed the mountain passes such as the colle Teodulo (3317 meters) and the Monte Moro (2984 meters) to create little stable settlements on the head of the valleys that from south to east surround the Monte Rosa massif.Very much tied to their traditions and to the “titsch” language, the families, specialized in fabric trade, emigrated to Europe for centuries, specially in Breisgau (Freiburg area) and in northern Switzerland, always keeping strong ties with their birthplace:Gressoney.

An architectural trace of their widespread travels can be seen by the “stadel”, rural buildings that lean on mushroom shaped columns with the stalk made of wood and the cap made of a big stone disc (known as “musblatte” in the Walser dialect), that was used to isolate the hayloft from humidity and rodents.These are huge buildings made of squared larch trunks which are piled one on top of the other and joined together at the corners by criss-crossed joints (mis-bois), built on a concrete foundation that holds the barn, once used as a home during the winter, the cellars and a hallway with a staircase that leads to the comfortable rooms.The stadel are located on the banks of the Lys river, away from avalanches and make up small family villages; these houses line, here and there, villages with other homes and villas and were built by merchants that made their fortunes in the XVIII and XIX centuries.

There are numerous villages were you can still see these age-old buildings:

Gressoney-La-Trinité:
- from the chief town of Gressoney-La-Trinité, a sweet sloping path leads, in about an hour, to the villages of Alpenzu.Located on a glacial terrace, on the great Walser path that leads to Val d’Ayas, beyond Colle Pinter, the 2 villages are examples of well preserved architectural tradition.The path has a wonderful view:it dominates the entire Valle del Lys and perches on the magical backdrop of the Monte Rosa glacier.

Gressoney-Saint-Jean:
- in Noversch, different stadel, built by the Zumstein family, are structural models
- the stadel located at Eckò are also particularly valuable, built in the XVII century by the Lischtgi
- Greschmattò:you can find the oldest house built in the flat area of Gressoney-Saint Jean, that dates back to 1547, once used as a courthouse and prison.Also worth seeing is the “Groalémgsch hus”, the tax collector’s house (1626) and “Schribehus” the clerk’s house (1806).
- Tschalvrinò:vast area filled with woods, cottages, stadel and hunting homes of the Beck Peccoz barons. You can reach it by taking the new road from Obre Biel.To the south (at 1772 meters) you can find one of the olderst Walser villages.Continuing by foot you will find other two stadel that date back to 1547 and 1578, leaning on characteristic mushrooms.
- Loomattò: typical hamlet at the foot of the Loo valley with a group of houses dating back to 1689, 1699, 1773.
- Trebelsch Hus:in the Tschòssil area there are a group of three homes, one of which has the date 1686 on the main beam. You can still find a rare oven used for baking bread, leaning on a block that acts as a support.
- Obre Chaschtal:age-old group of 7 buildings, all very characteristic, built from 1580 to 1710
- Perletoa:once a self-sufficient hamlet with age-old homes dating back to 1663, 1692, 1697, 1702, 1707, 1714, 1729
- Drésal:group of stone and wood homes of which the oldest dates back to 1587 with a small adjacent stone building containing the well and hamlet oven.

In the Gaby territory there are 37 “granir”, better known as “stadel”. Even in the territory of Issime, in the San Grato valley, you can admire numerous stadel.

The building was constructed in 1888 and designed by German engineers for the noble Beck Peccoz family. From 1889 to 1896, numerous members of the royal family, including the Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, fondest of Gressoney, stayed here on several occasions.
The municipality of Gressoney-Saint-Jean purchased the compound in 1968 to house the town hall.
The compound includes several buildings: the house immediately astounds visitors with its abundance of spires, gables, balustrades and impressive grey granite balconies. The guard house at the courtyard entrance is used as barracks by the carabinieri and the long, low building on the northern side once housed the stables and carriages. A stone dome used as an ice house is located behind the villa on the north-east corner. The compound is surrounded by a 19,000 square metre park mainly covered by a larch and pine wood.

Worthseeing:

• the two main doors, made of solid oak and artistically cast bars
• the atrium, with a Palladian mosaic floor, provides a view of the central wooden staircases with wrought iron handrails surmounted by rich nut and oak mouldings
• the first floor main hallway, lined with mirrors, chests and closets, has a ceiling decorated with delicate oil-painted floral motifs
• the first floor parlours are the most beautiful and best preserved in the villa: specifically, the original furniture and upholstery are preserved in tact in the south-east study, including the valuable Persian rug, twenty five square metres of delicate shades of pink and fuchsia
• the elegant enameled ceramic Bavarian stoves, each a different shape and colour in every room. It is said that a cubic metre of wood and a specifically dedicated servant were needed to feed these fires.

Some rooms can be visited upon request during town office business hours.

“D’Socka” are slippers made from a very warm, comfortable cloth, which were patiently prepared by the women during the long winter days. The “D’Socka” cooperative’s aim is to preserve and hand down this ancient tradition, by continuing to produce these traditional shoes so popular with the inhabitants of this valley.

The cooperative also produces gifts and items made with cloth, as well as traditional costumes from Gressoney with the gold bonnet and also sells products with brand and Valgrisa.

For opening times, please address to the “Contacts” indicated here below.

The fairy summer residence of Queen Margherita of Savoy which enjoyed a splendid view of Monte Rosa

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Queen Margaret Castle stands at the foot of Ranzola hill, in the place known as “Belvedere”, as it dominates the whole of the valley as far as the Lyskamm glacier.
The building was erected between 1899 (the first stone was laid on 24 August) and 1904. In 1981 it was purchased by Valle d’Aosta Regional Council.

The architect Emilio Stramucci, who designed the neo-Baroque decorations for Palazzo Reale in Turin and for the Quirinale in Rome, designed the mediaeval-style castle, described as “15th-century Lombard style”, quite frequent in France and Savoy, the homelands of the reigning sovereigns. It consists of a central rectangular body, with four cusp-roofed towers, each different from the others. The exteriors is covered in grey stone from the quarries of Chiappey in Gressoney, Gaby and Vert.
The castle is on three floors: the ground floor, with living quarters, the noble floor, with the royal apartments and the second floor (not open to visitors), reserved for gentlemen of the court; the cellars are located underground. Only a few pieces of the original furniture remain; the other furniture on show comes from Villa Margherita, property of the Beck Peccoz Barons, in which the Queen stayed before the manor’s construction; the original pieces include the tapestries in linen and cotton, decorated with a chiné effect. The ornamental pictures are the work of the young painter and restorer Carlo Cussetti, who later worked on the new wing of Palazzo Reale in Turin. The mediaeval-inspired coffered ceilings, wooden panels and furniture are by the Turin wood carver Dellera, who supplied the Royal House.

On the ground floor, the main entrance leads to a vast hall with columns and a painted coffered ceiling, which leads in turn onto other rooms. On one side are the gaming rooms and the sitting rooms, connected to the semi-circular veranda looking over the valley. On the opposite side are the dining room, with its richly painted decorations on the walls, fireplace and ceiling coffers, and parchment-carved boiserie. Neogothic is also the style used in the so-called “staff-bearer’s entrance” in the octagonal tower situated in the north-west corner.
An elegant wooden staircase with griffins and eagles leads to the royal apartments, preceded by a hall whose ceiling bears the inscription “Hic manebimus optime”. The Queen’s apartment occupies the best position: from the windows of the delightful sitting room in the northern tower, you can enjoy the view of Mount Rosa and the entire valley. The false fabrics painted between the windows are reminiscent of the decoration in the baronial hall of Issogne castle. The adjacent apartment was occupied by the Hereditary Prince Humbert. On the opposite side of the hall are situated the apartments of the King and of the Marchioness Pes of Villamarina, lady-in-waiting to the Queen.

The kitchens were located in a building a short distance away and were connected to the castle by an underground Decauville track.
Other annexes include Villa Belvedere, originally used for guests and the royal gendarmerie, and the little house known as Romitaggio Carducci, dedicated to the poet who was a devoted admirer and singer to the queen.
The foot of the manor hosts a rocky garden full of Alpine, botanical species.

The Chapel of Gresmatten
In the chapel of Greschmattò, dedicated to Maria Addolorata, and dating back to 1852, a Holy Mass is still celebrated today on the Good Friday, during which the Stabat Mater is sung in German.
This chapel is distinguished from the many other chapels in Gressoney for its yellow ocher color and for the name of the Saint frescoed on the facade with two small cherubs.
The chapel cannot be visited, but it is on the road that goes up towards the Savoy Castle and therefore it certainly deserves a visit, at least to see it from the outside.

The chapel of Loo
The chapel of Loo, dedicated to Saint Lawrence, is located in a high mountain pasture at 2080 meters above sea level, reachable in two and a half hours via walking trail number 12, which begins in Loomatten.
The white facade is dated 1682. Every year, on August 10th, for the feast of Saint Lawrence, a Holy Mass is celebrated, a deeply-rooted tradition strongly felt by the local community.

The chapel of Saint Joseph
The chapel of Saint Joseph, also known as of the Hermitage, is located a few minutes’ walk from the town of Gressoney-Saint-Jean. Dedicated to St. Joseph, like most of the Gressonard chapels, it dates back to 1600, and precisely to 1633; it cannot be visited inside.

The chapel of Trinò
This chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Grace and Our Lady of Sorrows, was built in 1720.
On the facade of the chapel there is a wooden cross and a Latin sentence with the year of its construction and that of its restoration. The chapel is located a few meters from the regional road, in the locality of Trinò. It is not open and cannot be visited.

The chapel of Eckò
Perhaps one of the most beautiful chapels in Gressoney, the chapel of Eckò, dedicated to St. John of Nepomuk and Our Lady of Sorrows, was built in 1657. It has wonderful frescoes of 1727 on the facade.
It can be reached in 20 minutes on foot from the hamlet of Noversch, or along path no. 15 which connects Gressoney-Saint-Jean to Gressoney-La-Trinité.
The chapel is privately owned and cannot be visited.

The parish of Gressoney-Saint-Jean was established in 1660 by Pope Alexander VI, who divided it from that of Issime, on which it depended up to that time. The church was built in 1515 on the foundations of an older chapel, as appears from the gothic inscription on the facade: “Hoc opus fecerunt magistri Anthon Goyeti de Issima et Cristanus filius eius, anno Domini MDXV”. During the first decades of the 1700’s, the building was elevated and extended with the addition of two asymmetrical side naves (the one on the left is shorter due to the presence of the bell tower from the sixteenth century).

Interesting elements:

• the 13th century wooden crucifix
• the German baroque goldsmith works of the small museum of sacred art.
• the bell tower: it is previous to the sixteenth century construction of the church and was raised in the 1700’s. The sides end with triangular tympanums that hold up a copper spire, from 1903, in pyramidical shape, surmounted by a cross;
• the Stations of the Cross: sheltered by an arcade in the churchyard, they date back to 1626, but the frescoes are of a later period, work of the Gressonard painter Joseph Anton Christopher Curta (1754-1794), also the author of the Crucifix of the parish church of Verrès and the Madonna of the Rosary located in Arvier. The beautiful stone cross in the middle dates from 1735;
• on the façade there is a bronze bust of Queen Margherita of Savoy, so loved by the Gressonards, solemnly inaugurated on September 9th 1928, in the presence of Prince Umberto of Savoy.

The Gressoney folk group – Greschoney Trachtengruppe was founded in 1957, with the aim of promoting the heritage of folk dances and songs in German and Titsch, and is currently made up of a group of children, one of adults and some musicians. It performs special dances from the Walser tradition and has received several prizes and awards.

The folk group is known both in Italy and abroad for its ancient and characteristic costume, renowned above all for its precious women's cap embroidered entirely in gold filigree and, together with the Walser Cultural Centre, is the official body that safeguards the tradition of these precious women's and men's costumes – the men's costume was created when the group was founded.

The group participates in national and international events, including the Walsertreffen, the great Walser gathering, and takes part to some summer events held in Gressoney. Since the 1990s, the folk group has been organising the Beer Festival, on the occasion of the celebrations for the patron saint of Gressoney-Saint-Jean: the festival recalls the most beautiful Germanic traditions with Kühbacher beer, which is brought every year directly from Munich by the brewery of the Beck Peccoz barons, native of Gressoney. The entire village is involved in the organisation of the event, and it has become one of the most renowned beer festivals in Italy.

In his testament drawn up in Augsburg and dated 11 February 1882, Baron Luigi Beck-Peccoz asked for his collection of trophies to be transported to Gressoney and arranged in a purposely-built building allocating a large sum of money to it.
At the start of the 20th century His brothers Antonio and Carlo, the executors of his will, built the museum at Gressoney-Saint-Jean, in Predeloasch, a few metres from Villa Margherita.
Inside the building, in rooms decorated with German-style frescoes, Egon Beck-Peccoz, Antonio’s son, collected and displayed the rare and rich collection of hunting trophies, antique weapons, and other precious family heirlooms such as portraits, paintings, books and publications on Alpine fauna and flora.
The building complete with collections of trophies and antique weapons was bought by Regione Valle d’Aosta in 1986.
The Val d’Aosta Forest Guard designed and created a new museum and at the same time ensured the conservation and safeguard of historical collections.

The hunting trophies collection
Johann Christoph Beck (1749-1818), part of a line of hunting enthusiasts, was struck by the variety of horns and antlers seen during his travels beyond the Alps, first during his trade travels and then as head of the procurement section of Napoleon’s army. So, whenever possible he bought hunting trophies which, in his opinion, had particular characteristics, unconsciously undergoing the tendency in vogue during the enlightenment of collecting and cataloguing the anomalies of nature. He was responsible for the first and oldest section of the collection. Later, his son Joseph Anton (1808-1882) completed the collection magnificently, stimulated by the fashion of the time whereby Bavarian families decorated their palaces with extraordinary hunting trophies, a kind of competition where he was often the winner. For this reason, by giving him the noble title, King Louis I of Bavaria gave him permission to use the deer on his family coat of arms, later replaced by a rock goat by King Charles Albert when he gave the title of the kingdom of Piedmont. His sons, Luigi, Antonio and Carlo constructed the current building in 1904.
The collection of around 2000 pieces (horns and antlers mounted on shields) includes chamois, rock goats, deer and roes and various trophies of local and exotic wild fauna. Of particular interest are the examples of Siberian roe (Capreolus pygargus) and the cross between the goat and the rock goat.
The quality of the trophies and interesting examples of different types of bone malformation give historical and scientific significance to the collection.

The weapons collection
There is a small but very interesting weaponry on the first floor of the museum. The original display cabinets contain a 90-piece collection of long and short weapons, fire and military arms. Of particular interest are the long front- and rear-loading hunting arms. These are mostly combined arms: ball and shot, billing, drilling and over-and-under. The hunting rifles on display are equipped with sophisticated mechanisms and have barrels in fine damask and butts made of walnut root. Frames and frame plates are finely carved with hunting scenes. These rifles have reached us in excellent condition and are unique items used by the Barons Beck-Peccoz to hunt at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century.

St. Nicholas’ day, which takes place on the 6th of December, is one of the most interesting Germanic traditions that characterise the daily life of Gressoney’s Walser community.
This feast is still very important because children await “St. Kloas” with trepidation. On the eve of his coming they go from door to door, distributing a small card with their own name. When they ask: “Will St. Nicholas come along?” people usually answer: Yes, of course” and they hide the cards under a dish, where during the night the saint will put the gifts!
In ancient times St. Nicholas was very poor and therefore he only brought fruit, walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, some sweets…. and sometimes a cane for disobedient children!
Everything was usually eaten, the nuts excepted. Since people believed, that this fruit had been blessed by the saint, they were used to keeping it in their pockets in order to protect themselves against danger.

The traditional costume of Gressoney is among the most beautiful in the Aosta Valley.

In ancient times Gressoney’s women were used to wearing their traditional costume every day, even when they were working. Of course, it was not so elegant and so richly decorated as today’s costume. On the contrary, it was shorter and plain.
In the course of times Gressoney’s inhabitants began to wear other clothes, so that the beautiful costume with its valuable bonnet, made of filigree and precious stones, became the best clothe, which was only used for fests and special occasions.
Besides the scarlet costume with golden ornaments, there is a so-called violet “mourning costume” with silver decorations.