How to get here

Aosta Est highway exit. Take the road for Gran San Bernardo. In Variney, on the right for Valpelline until the hamlet of Dzovennoz di Bionaz, on the left for Ruz 1,700 m.

Description of the route

Day one
From Ruz, ascend the first two hairpin turns on the farm road to the first mountain pasture. Cross on the right and climb the wide slope until you meet the farm road again. Continue up to the right of the ridge covered by numerous avalanche barriers, first in the woods and then in the open canyons. Reach the Crête Sèche hut, 2,410 m, clearly visible since located at the end of the moraine.
Day two
Continue keeping the valley on the right, being careful of the last and steep slope that leads to the Spataro camp, 2,600 m. Cross the wide plain called “Plan de la Sabla” to its end on the left. Take the increasingly steeper groove between the two rock faces that lead to the base of the glacier. Climb the easy peaks above following your own route to the Gelé peak at altitude 3,144 m. Turn right and, keeping to the western slope, crossing the base of the Mont de la Balme rocks, reach the top. The last 50 meters are climbed with crampons.