How to get here

From the motorway exit at Morgex (usable only in the Aosta-Courmayeur direction), or from that of Courmayeur, head toward Pré-Saint-Didier. Park your car in the parking area of the spa waters and walk into the gorge, crossing a picturesque bridge a few minutes after. Continue on the right bank until the end of the trail, near a building from which hot water spurges. Climb over the roof of the structure to the bottom of the ravine. 20 minutes.

Description of the route

One of the most beautiful lines of the high Aosta Valley, although it does not form every year. It is a frozen pearl, nestled at the bottom of the ravine of Pré-Saint-Didier, in a very suggestive environment. It ends with a spectacular free-standing made famous by a photograph rather evocative depicting François Damilano in opening. After the first climb, the final column formed much larger in 2003, the year he was made the first repetition by M. Giglio and N. Meli and subsequently by other roped parties. 2009 was finally the last year in which it consolidated perfectly and climbed by other roped parties.
The first climb was initially attributed to E. Marlier and A. Casalegno in 1989 … this is a historical fake, passed on with shallowness over the years.
Attention to suspended fringes of Exercice de style that, in case of falling, will be conveyed in the narrow passage of the first pitch.

Level: II/5
Length: 160 m
First ascent: S. Chappaz, M. Girod, F. Damilano 1996
Altitude: 1100 m
Exposure: West-North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 6,98572 Lat.: 45,757646 - UTM (ED50) - X: 343433,03 Y: 5069292,61

L1: vertical pillar then gullies embedded between the rocks. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left (spit).
L2: short snow slope on the right then, non-vertical wall that ends with a very short cauliflower stretch. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the right (spit).
L3: cauliflower stretch followed by a beautiful free-standing consistently vertical. 40 metres. Belay on tree at the top right.

Descent: abseiling down the ice climb via the anchors used during the climb (trees and spits).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.