Sport Itineraries: Ollomont

Wall ascent: On foot, cross the bridge over the stream and follow the path on the right.

The Ollomont wall was bolted by local guides. In recent years, the town funded new bolting and the routes now have resin pitons and ideal distances for newcomers. belay stations are included. A 50 meter cord is sufficient to descent all routes except for the two-length route. A new indoor climbing gym called Maison Grimpe is available in the event of bad weather.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have quickdraw chains. Climbers are either belayed down on a 50m cord or abseil on longer routes.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 5b to 7c, average 6a.

Total number of routes: 19

Average length is 30 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 110 meters.

It is an ice climb located at the far right of the rocky reef that includes the “Gaula” waterfalls. It is not very visible as it is embedded in a gully. When it forms – unfortunately not always – it is definitely a recommended line. Prestigious for famous names visiting Ollomont.

Level: II/4
Length: 140 m
First ascent: P. Batoux, A. Cheraz, P. Gabarrou, E. Marlier 1996
Altitude: 1850 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,31134 Lat.: 45,872042 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369025,17 Y: 5081415,84

L1: ice, often fine, but never vertical, to the upper snowy channel. Belay on the rock to the left (fix).
L2: channel of snow up to the base of the centre pillar. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L3: ice ramp followed by a considerable vertical pillar of about 8 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L4: pleasant recessed vertical length between never vertical rocks. Belay at the top to the tree (ropes).

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is the busiest line in the area. It shows as a good, vertical ice wall, a hundred metres high, that forms on a rocky ledge surrounded by woodland. Unfortunately, it suffers an unfavourable exposure to the sun and not always offers high quality ice. Furthermore, it does not form regularly every year, but when it does, you have to grab it quick! No objective dangers.
The name of the ice climb commemorates the accommodation facilities, which no longer exist, “Foyer des guides” located in the village of Vaud and managed by one of its first climbers (A. Cheraz).

Level: II/4
Length: 100 m
First ascent: A. Cheraz, E. Marlier in the 90’s
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,29506 Lat.: 45,870991 - UTM (ED50) - X: 367758,87 Y: 5081325,88

L1: very long, vertical and sustained pitch, more or less at the centre of the great wall. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the left in a niche (fix).
L2: turn right to tackle an impressive sequence of vertical ridges, until the end of the difficulties. 40 metres. Belay on rock to the left (fix).

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb with the anchors used during the climb (fix).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

It is the leftmost line of the rock bastion overhanging the left bank of the valley, above the village of Glacier. A beautiful waterfall surrounded by woodland, consisting of three independent sections. It is named after the small chapel nestled into the rocks a few metres to the right of the departure of the first pitch. Ideal for tackling frozen waterfalls for the first time.
In certain years with abundant ice, instead of the first pitch, you can climb a little more difficult start point variant, located to the right of the chapel, which reaches the base of the original pitch: Diretta dell’oratorio. II/4. 40 metres (S. Petey, P. Rollin 2007).

Level: II/3
Length: 120 m
First ascent: S. Petey, C. Rosset 1990
Altitude: 1900 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,31257 Lat.: 45,87417 - UTM (ED50) - X: 369125,18 Y: 5081650,26

L1: easy and wide ice slide. Belay on ice high above on a snowy plateau at the base of the following jump.
L2: impressive ice wall, initially vertical, then less steep until it ends. Belay to the top of the tree. Depending on conditions, you can climb this obstacle along various lines; the ones on the left side are even more difficult (WI4).
Brief transfer on snow.
L3: climb the last not so difficult ridge and the subsequent snow slope. Belay at the top to a tree.

Descent: on foot. From the end of the ice climb, cross the woods horizontally toward the left (facing uphill) until you find the channel which descends diagonally to the start point.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

At Ollomont, take the dirt road that goes up to the pasture of Berrio Superiore. Here, ignore route 6 on the left which goes toward the Regondi bivouac, and take the right-hand path which crosses a panoramic flat area, and leads up to Col Brison. The final stretch is a steep climb amidst meadows and stone ground.

Just before you get to Glacier, in the municipality of Ollomont, take route 4, near the crossroad between the paved and dirt roads, which goes up to Pont, Crottes then continues to By where it turns left near a church, then goes right past the Farinet house. Continue along the road until you reach the alp of By (2050 m). Go back to the trail which intersects the private road several times before leading to Tsa Commune (2304 m). From here it winds several times before leading to below the refuge, which is reached after a section that includes a fixed chain.

Just before you get to Glacier, in the municipality of Ollomont, take route 5, near the crossroad between the paved and dirt roads, which goes up to Pont, Crottes then continues to By where it turns left near a church, then goes right past the Farinet house. From here continue along trail 5 on the right which then joins a dirt road until it reaches Balme de Bal (2128 m). Return to the itinerary, which intersects the private road it has just left then runs almost parallel to it on its way to the alp of Lambardin (2309 m). The road now takes you to the alp of Thoules (2381 m). Continue along the trail until you reach the mountain path, where a plate commemorates the passage of President Luigi Einaudi, who took refuge in Switzerland during the Second World War.

Just before you get to Glacier, in the municipality of Ollomont, take route 3, near the crossroad between the paved and dirt roads, which goes up to Pont, Crottes then continues to By where it turns left near a church and heads for the small wall that acts as a barrage. Cross it and head for a farm road, which winds several times then leads to the Porchère alp (2102 m). Continue along the route that starts at the dwellings, and, after intersecting the same road several times, leads to Tsa di Porchère (2290 m). The trail that turns off from the alp leads to the Rosazza-Savoie bivouac.

At Ollomont, take the dirt road that goes up to the pasture of Berrio Superiore. Now, ignoring the right branch that goes to Col Brison, follow the left route no. 6 towards Tsa de Berrio, Col Cormet and Lake La Clusaz. The same route (6) takes you up at this point to the Regondi bivouac.

From the village of Ollomont, continue to the hamlet of Rey where you can leave your car in a parking lot. Here you cross a bridge and go up to the left towards the Locanda delle minere where are the signs of the Alta Via 1. After a few bends you come to cross the dirt road of the ru du Mont and here you have to pay some attention: you must follow the flat dirt road to the left even if there are visible indications of paths 1 both triangular and round (1 triangular = Alta Via; 1 round ring route that climbs with a lot of difference in height and much longer). At this point continue through the woods until the path becomes more adventurous with stretches of path carved into the rock; even if there are protections and metal ropes to hold on to for greater safety it is necessary to pay attention. Cross a small stream without a bridge looking for the most convenient place to ‘jump’. After a short stretch you reach the entrance of the tunnel from where the waters of the ru du Mont arrive. The gallery is normally not illuminated so it is essential to have a battery-powered torch with you, from the entrance you can see a distant white dot: it is the exit 700 meters away. The water flows inside a canal with a wall and protective net and its noise accompanies the whole crossing. Exiting the tunnel, continue right for about 300 meters until you reach the paved road. From here the view is spectacular on Becca di Nona and Monte Emilius but above all on the enchanting solitary church of Chatelair on a small promontory surrounded by greenery. For the return, if you want, you can return by choosing the ‘pedestrian path’ indicated on a special panel, but this path is much longer, with much more difference in height as it passes from the Fontine Visitor Center in Frissonnière di Valpelline, we therefore recommend the return on the same itinerary. The legend tells how this ru, which in some places is dug on the steep walls of the mountain, was so precious that it was guarded by a guardian and a white snake (actually a protective fairy). The guardian’s substitute killed the snake and from that moment the canal began to be destroyed. Only the tunnel restored the passage of the precious waters.

Day one
From the village of Glassier, take the wide mule path that climbs towards Conca di By. Near the small artificial basin, continue climbing diagonally to the By pasture where you will find a dirt road. Cross the road and head North across the large pastures. After passing by a pasture, the path steeply rises on the slop to a strip of rocks you can climb with the help of some fixed cords. After this more demanding segment, you’ll be near the Chiarella all’Amianthe hut (2879 m).
Day two
From the hut, climb North along a sort of sediment valley that curves to the left. At the end - to the right - the Colle Amianthe opens leading to the Mont Durand glacier. Continue North on the modest slope, going around the steep glacier slope until you’re in sight of the Col de Sonadon. When you reach the Col, slightly drop to climb to the ledge at the base of Spalla Isler where the Musso camp stands on the left. Free-climb Spalla’s steep face according to the weather conditions. Some fixes are near the top, on the rocks on the left, to ease both ascent and descent. When you reach Grand Combin de Valsorey, where you’ll find a small wooden cross, follow the ridge to the right that leads to the higher peak called Grand Combin de Grafeneire.

Descent down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From Glassier take the clear mule track for By that winds upwards until you come to a small church. Turn left towards a small dam; cross its coping and you will pick up the trail of a country road. After passing it, carry on the slope that heads up to Alpe Porchère. Pass by the mountain pasture furthest upstream - Tsa Porchère - and continue along the path that turns to the left along a water duct. A little further on you will come into a valley that heads up as far as the grassy hump where you will find the Savoie bivouac.
Day two
From the bivouac, follow a pathway that leads to the valley of the Valsorey Pass. Look for traces of the path that rises up between the rocks that take you under the last slope defending the pass. Come at it from the left and you will come to a pass with a crossing to the right. Carry on to the left on a clear rocky ridge following the stone figures that lead to Mont Cordine 3,323m. From the peak, come down towards a clear carving, Col de Chamois, that can be overcome with the aid of a fixed rope; head back up a stretch of the ridge until you come to the Valsorey glacier, leaving the Dents du Velan on the left and heading back up the 2 clear snowy humps that lead to the terminal dome.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Leave your car near the signs for the C.V.A. (Giri d’Energia) and take the summer path following the directions on a series of signposts showing the routes passing through the Conca di By. Climb the slope, which is normally well-beaten, following the clear fencing which accompanies the summer path making it easy to follow. When you reach a hump, you go downhill briefly and gently climb towards the Alpine pasture of Pont. Once past the Alpine pasture and the characteristic “aquaduct” (a metal pipe supported by imposing stone columns) you follow the directions towards By, going downhill briefly until you reach a small bridge over an almost frozen stream. From here you start climbing again, going through a short section of larch trees; you continue on, following the winding pathway which leads you to the foot of the Alpine pastures of Crottes. Once past the Alpine pastures (you actually walk below them) you continue on, cutting diagonally towards the left until you reach the sparse larch-tree wood again; from here you start to climb steeply again with a long series of turns until you cut across the ridge again, this time to the right, until you come to a small rocky promontory. You walk past it and following the fence, you come to a small balcony beneath the Conca di By: with a final effort, you climb up the barren ridge until you reach the small Chapel of the Madonna degli Alpini situated near the By basin.
You now continue on passing between the little church and a farm building in the direction of Farinet which you reach after a few minutes. After a brief stop, you continue on until you come to a signpost, which is just visible from the house: you now turn left in the direction of the village of By. make your way along the summer lane, which is clearly visible in winter, going in a northerly/north-westerly direction crossing a ridge which is very insidious, when the snow is not perfectly stable. Once past this diagonal, the tiny village of By appears before you, immersed in the splendid By hollow and surrounded by the imposing peaks from the Molaires du Valsorey to the Tête Blanche.