Sport Itineraries: Bionaz

From Aosta, the regional capital, to the territory of the municipality of Bionaz, passing through the villages of Valpelline and Oyace.

AOSTA CITY: ANCIENT HISTORY AND SHOPPING
Before heading North and entering Valpelline, allow yourself a few hours to visit Aosta. You will discover that it is truly worth the effort and you will head out again with only one thought: to come back soon!
Park your motorbike next to the Arch of Augustus, a symbolic monument of Aosta built in 25 BC, the year the city was founded. A few steps in the historical centre and you arrive at the Porta Praetoria, the Roman Theatre, the Forum… And then the Cathedral, the Church of Sant’Orso, the San Lorenzo basilica, Piazza Chanoux. But that’s not all. You can immerse yourself in the ancient streets of the city, go shopping in the elegant shops of the pedestrian area, enjoy the pleasure of a typical restaurant and visit the exclusive local craft shops. Enough for now, however. Valpelline awaits you!

GO UP ALONG THE VALPELLINE VALLEY
You’ll really enjoy the unique atmosphere of this valley. Quiet and little-travelled roads, a captivating setting, dominated by the imposing peaks that mark the border with Switzerland, thick forests and inviting meadows, ideal for a nice stop. The gastronomic culture is also very lively, with the “Seupa à la Vapelenentse” and, naturally, Fontina cheese, to which the large festival held annually in mid-August at Oyace is dedicated. A whole wheel of cheese, in the hard luggage, maybe not. But a chunk, yes. A nice piece of Fontina to enjoy in the evening or perhaps to melt down for a substantial fondue. So take a small detour, shortly after the capital village of Valpelline, to the visitor centre of the Cooperativa Produttori Latte e Fontina. The visit to the centre also includes the spectacular Fontina maturing warehouses dug into the rock, one of which was created inside the ancient copper mine and where the Fontina remains for 80 days and takes on its sweet and inimitable taste.

BIONAZ AND THE PLACE MOULIN DAM
Bionaz, one of the municipalities with the largest territorial extension in the region, is located at 1600 metres above sea level at the head of  the Valpelline valley. For a different stop than usual, you can stop at the Lexert picnic area, surrounded by greenery, on the banks of a pretty lake. The road continues further between curves and green panoramas until reaching the imposing Place Moulin dam: the vast lake of Place Moulin, with emerald waters, is flanked by a dirt farm road closed to traffic.

Probably the most famous Valpelline ice climb when it comes to medium-high difficulty. Its fame is surely deserved, so much as to be absolutely recommended to all ice climbing enthusiasts with a little spirit of adventure. In fact, we are not exactly in the typical comfort zone of the Cogne valleys; before planning the climb, it is necessary to consider a number of factors including, of course, the snow. It may seem lengthy when approaching it, depending on the road viability to the dam of Place Moulin.
The ice climb is characterised by a big stalactite jump at the start point (of varying difficulty depending on its formation), followed by a higher section that seems easier but anchors need to be applied for safety. Fixed anchors (spits) were present once, but even the solid expansion bolts were wiped away with the mighty rush of the summer waters.
Technically, it is comparable to Stella artice in Valeille … but requiring a greater effort overall.

Level: IV/5
Length: 200 m
First ascent: E. Marlier, C. Rosset 1989
Altitude: 2050 m
Exposure: North-West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,48074 Lat.: 45,891793 - UTM (ED50) - X: 382213,61 Y: 5083345,98

L1: pretty vertical jump that can be approached along different lines. Belay at the end on ice. There used to be a belay on the rock to the right (spit) that can no longer be used.
L2, L3, L4: the difficulties of the ice climb decrease considerably. You climb belaying at will on ice to the end of the waterfall.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb (abalakov).

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

A few metres down the road that leads to Chez-Chenoux, in the municipality of Bionaz, take the path on the right that goes up to Alpe Chalon and then leads to La Tsa. Continue left on, still on trail 5, ignoring the path on the right (no.3, which leads to Pas des Feuilles. Next you come to Alpe Marmottin and after this, at the crossroad take the path to the right towards Alpe Luseney, enclosed in a circle of rocky walls.

When you get to Ferrère, in the municipality of Bionaz, follow the agricultural road that goes to Puillayes, then take route 14 which climbs up in the Montagnayes basin. When you get to the slopes of the Becca des Rayes Plains, turn left on the same itinerary, ignoring route 15 which goes up to Tsa de Culoz-Aquelou, and go up a valley that comes out onto Comba d’Arbière. Cross the valley to reach Alpe Praz de Dieu.

From Rû, in the municipality of Bionaz, take route 2 which goes along and intersects several sections of the dirt road, and leads to the alps of Primo and Berrier. Just before reaching this pasture, where the route goes back onto the private road at about 200 m from the houses, take the same route (2) on the left and go up to the Crête-Sèche refuge. From here, continue into the valley to Plan de la Sabla, then cross stone ground to reach the hill by the same name.

Excursion itinerary as far as Plan de La Sabla.
Itinerary for expert hikers from Plan de La Sabla to the hill.

From Rû, in the municipality of Bionaz, take route 3 which goes along and intersects several sections of the dirt road, and leads to the alps of Primo and Berrier. From here, at the crossroad ignore route 4 on the left and continue along route 3, which takes you to La Tsa after going past the alp of Marmottin. Continue along the same itinerary (3) and ignoring route 5 which leads to the valley bottom, you come to Pas des Feuilles then, go past a section of the route with facilities, to reach the alp of Grand Chamin. Near the lodges, take the private road that descends to Chamin and abandons it after a few metres, then regains the route on the left until it reaches the paved road at a hairpin, not far from the Place Moulin dam.

From the Place Moulin dam yard, in the municipality of Bionaz, follow route 11 which runs alongside the lake and reaches the Prarayer refuge. From here, continue along the same route which flanks the Buthier, first on the right then on the left orographic bank, until you come to the ruined pasture of Gorge. Continue going up until you reach Alpe Bella Tsa.

From the Place Moulin parking area, continue along the dirt road that starts with a short rise an then continues along the flat right around the artificial lake (5 km) to the Prarayer mountain hut (2005 m).
From the mountain hut, continue through the valley, following path no. 10A, ignoring the paths that take up to the right (first for the Livournea valley and then for the Alpe Bella Tsa mountain pasture). Path 10A climbs up on the left, where it meets a magnificent 500-year-old larch tree, which has today reached a height of over 24 metres. The path then makes its way through the large main valley, until it reaches a walkway of 2520 metres. Here, instead of continuing towards the valley bottom (along an old equipped path that is now dangerous as a result of falling blocks of ice), head east towards a large moraine; climb up it and walk along it until the point where it meets the valley of the Tête de Valpelline glacier. After a brief descent, go back onto the path, which, after a series of little bends, reaches the mountain hut.

From the Place Moulin dam yard, in the municipality of Bionaz, follow route 10, which runs alongside the lake and reaches the Prarayer refuge. Go past it, then take route 13 on the right at the crossroad, then cross the bridge over the Buthier and continue going left towards Alpe Plan de l’Arp and Alpe Mont-Charvin. Continue up the hillside above the lake ( you come to Alpe Chalet Vieux) until you penetrate the Livournéaz valley, at the start of which you find the lake of the same name.

From the car park of the Place Moulin dam, in the municipality of Bionaz, follow a short section of the dirt road that goes up to the left, then take the steep route 7 on the left and follow it to the cabins of Plan Vayun. Continue left until you reach the lake of Mont Rouge and Lac des Têtes, then Lago Lungo and lastly Lago Morto.

From the car park of the Place Moulin dam, in the municipality of Bionaz, follow the road that runs along the lake, and after 500 metres, take route 8 on the left, which goes up to the cabins of Arp Pessaou and Bas Orein. At a crossroad near Bas Orein, ignore the path that descends onto the lake road and continue on the left (no. 8) which goes up to Alpe Praz Modzon Damon, Alpe Grand Orein and Alpe Garda, from where you continue into the valley. Almost at the end, the trail climbs up onto a crag and lastly arrives at the two refuges.

The Place Moulin dam is situated in the municipality of Bionaz and can be reached along the Great St Bernardo state road 27 at the Variney junction, where regional road 28 starts and goes up Valpelline. This large artificial lake with jade green waters has a capacity of around 105 million m³ and stretches for 4 Km in length from Place Moulin to Prarayer. The Place Moulin lake is flanked by a dirt road which is not open to vehicles.

This is a comfortable flat hike (1 hour’s walk) amid steep rocks, waterfalls, meadows and woods, and leads to the historical Prarayer pasture (2005 m) and the modern mountain refuge of the same name.

Accessible to disabled people in wheelchairs if accompanied.

From Rû, in the municipality of Bionaz, take trail 1 which goes along and intersects several sections of the dirt road for Berrier. Take the left route at the fork in the road for the alp of Primo, (trail 1) and follow it into the thick wood until it comes out of the Faudéry plain (the mountain pass is difficult to cross).

Day one
From the Place Moulin dam lot, follow the narrow dirt road around the artificial lake until you see the sign, on you left, for the path to the Col Collon hut. You’ll soon find another dirt road that ends near the Arpeyssaou mountain pasture. At the end of a diagonal, enter Comba d’Oren where the d’Oren and La Garda mountain pastures rise. The sediment ground starts at the end of the pastures. Cross it on the right hugging the left shore of the stream. Following the yellow signs, turn right along the narrow path that climbs over the rocks to the plateau above. You’ll see the Col Collon and Nacamuli huts from the edge which are at the end of a short ramp.

Day two
From the huts, follow the sediment valley to Col Collon (3114 m). From the pass, descent north-west to the Mont Collon glacier and cross it heading West.
The gradient progressively increases and - careful of crevasses - leads under the end skid that you can climb to your left towards the ridge that leads to the top.

Descent down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From the Place Moulin dam log, follow the narrow dirt road that coasts the artificial lake to Prarayer where you will find the hut. From here, continue along the path that crosses the sloping valley floor. After a long shelf - in sight of the hut - the climb starts. A short segment equipped with chains leads to the Aosta hut.

Day two
From the hut, quickly drop to the edge of the moraine (rain gauge) and follow it to the end. The climb on the Grandes Murailles glacier. A steep but short ice wall protects the entrance to the upper plateau which easily leads to the base of Colle di Tiefenmatten on the left. Some of the fixed cords make the climb in the channel that leads to the pass easier. The route is not market by the edge of the ridge on mixed ground: rocks, ledges and snow-covered segments alternate to create a fun and easy climb to the top.

Descent down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

Day one
From the village of Rûz follow the unsurfaced country road that runs along the catchment right side of the valley and ends at the Berrier Alpine lodge (2192 m). In some stretches it is still possible to walk along what remains of the pretty path used before the road was built. From the edges of the terrace where the mountain chalets are located, is the start of the path that bends to the left to head off diagonally and cross close to a characteristic rock known as “The Berrio de la Bosse”, where the river gushes from. Carry on until you come to the steep ridge that provides access to the grassy terrace where the Crête Sèche refuge stands.
Day two
From the refuge, the path continues northwards and follows on along the background of the valley before going round some bends that allow you to take the edge of the Plan de la Sabla, where the Franco Spataro (2615m) bivouac encampments is located. Once across the river, follow the plain without pathway until you can take the stony or snowy pass that opens up to the left. At the end of it, you will find the Mont Gelé Pass (3180 m).
From the pass turn right in order to climb back up the slightly steep glacier and, leaving the Col de la Balme on your right, you will come to the rocks that head up towards the ridge. In a short space of time you will come to the peak that offers a magnificent view over the wild Morion hillside and the Vallese peaks.
Descent: down the upward itinerary.

This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.

From Chez les Chenaux, continue West along the snow-covered road. Walk along the side following a couple of watersheds to reach Grand Rond in about 45 minutes. Leave the slope and continue on your right, entering the woods to climb the short peak to another slope: finding your way may be difficult in this segment since there are no markers. Continue north until you reach the slope coming from Ruz near the Moulin stream. Turn right and, following the slope, you’ll be led to the knoll before your destination. Exit the woods where you see the pasture: continue straight towards Alpe Berrier, taking in the exciting views of the nearby Becca di Luseney.

We only recommend you take this route in excellent weather conditions.

Day one:
From the Place Moulin dam, 1,968 m, follow the road on the right bank to Cappella La Lé. Just ahead, turn left and follow the well-marked path that crosses the stream on a new wooden bridge. Cross the woods until you reach comba d’Oren. Continue along the valley floor passing near the La Garda chalet, 2,211 m, and then climb the moraines to Plan d’Gan. Turn right and follow the short channels to the plateaus in front of the Nacamuli-Collon hut (2,828 mt. 3:30h).
Day two:
Drop down and cross the left side of the valley without any beaten path to the wide Col Collon 3,114 m.
Continue for several minutes on the level ground and turn left, keeping the Arolla glacier on your left. Go around the small crevasses heading for Col d’Eveque, 3,392 m. Turn left again and follow the ridge to the 3,525 m peak. Use crampons for the last couple feet.

Day one
From Ruz, ascend the first two hairpin turns on the farm road to the first mountain pasture. Cross on the right and climb the wide slope until you meet the farm road again. Continue up to the right of the ridge covered by numerous avalanche barriers, first in the woods and then in the open canyons. Reach the Crête Sèche hut, 2,410 m, clearly visible since located at the end of the moraine.
Day two
Continue keeping the valley on the right, being careful of the last and steep slope that leads to the Spataro camp, 2,600 m. Cross the wide plain called “Plan de la Sabla” to its end on the left. Take the increasingly steeper groove between the two rock faces that lead to the base of the glacier. Climb the easy peaks above following your own route to the Gelé peak at altitude 3,144 m. Turn right and, keeping to the western slope, crossing the base of the Mont de la Balme rocks, reach the top. The last 50 meters are climbed with crampons.

From Chamen, 1,710 m, follow the farm road whose numerous hairpin turns leads to the Gran Chamen plateaus. Keeping to the centre of the valley, climb to the La Grotta pastures, 2,211 m, and continue to about altitude 2,300 m where you can turn into the valley on the left. Climb up the clear canyon that leads upwards and follow the unmarked path through the valley to the Tza hill. Leave your skis and follow the edge of the ridge South-East to the summit.

From the parking area of Ruz you enter the village following the signs for the Crete Seche refuge. You go up a nice path that, at first, alternates with a dirt road at the entrance to the valley. Once you reach the mountain pastures you can continue on the normal path or take the shortcuts to the left, (indicated by signs with “raccourci” written on them), that steeper and quicker take you to the refuge. Once at the facility, pass it heading towards the bivouac Spataro that dominates the entrance to the plains. Once passed the bivouac you continue towards the bottom of the valley. At this point the tracks are not so visible: to the left you can see the detrital slide that leads to the Mont Gelé.
You continue to the right looking for various posts which are not easy to find, but you can easily see the huge post placed on the hill, which you can already see from the plains. Once you’ve reached the hill continue to the left on the fully equipped trail that goes up all along the crest. The itinerary is continuous and simple, with some aerial parts and short portions without rope (because it’s not needed). The last part is characterized by short amusing plaques placed to the left of the crest. In some parts the rock defoliates but does not get in the way.
Once you’ve finished the ferrata you climb down on the huge morainic rock and go to the left where there are two trails. The one to the right goes down towards middle coast on the plains and takes to the refuge. The one to the left goes towards the canal and down to the plains. In both trails you continue on the path that you crossed in the beginning.