How to get here

Just a few metres before reaching the village of Rovenaud, find the footpath to the Casolari di Maisoncle. Follow it until you cross the ice climb’s great riverbed. Go along the waterway up to the amphitheater at the base of the first jump. In poor snow conditions, you would have to take on a short vertical passage of 3/4 metres to go right around a large boulder. 15 min.

Description of the route

It is a super classic of the Valsavarenche area which is usually crowded. Two fairly long walls with different exposure separated by a short connecting trail; all embedded in a great recess but not too much. Given its easy access, it is often linked (before or after) with the other classic of the valley: Antares.

Level: II/4
Length: 150 m
First ascent: S. De Leo, F. Toldo 1984
Altitude: 1550 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,20453 Lat.: 45,613438 - UTM (ED50) - X: 360090,17 Y: 5052865,52

L1: it is a long slide initially vertical for a few metres then inclined up to the end. Belay at the upper left (fix).
Sinuous connecting stretch down to the base of the characteristic second jump recessed among the rocks.
L2: wide continuous wall that is climbable either on the left or right, but more elegant if done in a single length, even if there are belays with fixes on both sides to climb it in two pitches. Belay on rock at the top, just beyond a short prominence (fix).
From here you can abseil down. To leave the ice climb and descend on foot, you still have to walk down a short icy slope, after which head left towards the woods where you will find the footpath.

Descent: abseiling along the ice climb from the end of the hard parts (back along the stretch between the first and second jump) or along the more impressive path on the right bank which easily leads to the start point. In this case, continue to climb an easy icy slope to reach the forest slope that runs along the top of the ice climb. Head North horizontally (right bank) until you find the trail of an easy path winding down toward the base of the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.