Sport Itineraries: Gressoney-Saint-Jean

Wall ascent: Walk towards the chalet to take the 4a path which, from the base of the woods, climbs towards the wall. Once on the flat path, follow it to the low sector, close to the wall. For the high sector, follow path 4a.

The wall behind the town is clearly visible from the road and parking lot. It has different types of routes divided in two sectors: ledges on the east wall and vertical and slightly steep walls in the high sector. Bolting is recent with resin pitons in the high sector and stainless steel fixes on the east ledges.
The activity requires technical experience. Alpine guide assistance is recommended.

Descent: Stops have chains and belays and climbers abseil down on 50 meter cords.

Minimum, maximum and average route difficulty from 4b to 7c, average 6c.

Total number of routes: 15+9

Average length is 25 meters with a minimum of 18 and maximum of 20 meters.

Other rock walls in the area: Santuario e Benedizione – Gressoney-La-Trinité.

Classic amateur ice climb, very accessible. It is located downstream of the picturesque village of Walser from which it takes its name. Very crowded.

Level: II/3
Length: 180 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod in the early 80’s
Altitude: 1500 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82021 Lat.: 45,797598 - UTM (ED50) - X: 408396,04 Y: 5072435,07

L1: rather short length that passes the first ice ridge, never vertical. Belay on rock to the left (fix).
L2: same features as the first pitch but longer. Belay to the right on tree (rope).
Move along the river to the base of the final jump. Belay on the rock to the right (fix).
L3: good ridge about 60 metres high allowing numerous climbing routes depending on the weather conditions. You can climb in two lengths, stopping halfway on ice or, more elegantly, in one long pitch. Belay at the top on a tree (ropes).

Descent: descent is possible by abseiling down the ice climb. However, to not interfere with other roped parties, it is preferable to walk down an easy footpath on the left bank. In this case, at the end of the third jump, you must climb another hundred metres until you find the path to Alpenzù.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

One of the pearls of the Gressoney Valley. Easy access, fun and athletic climb, absence of objective dangers. Yet another prestigious name in the valley thanks to the award winning Jaccod-Marlier. Very crowded.
Most of the roped parties traverse just the first two pitches and then abseil down. An easy third length lets you leave the ice climb and easily reach the channel along the right side (facing uphill) of the waterfall.

Level: II/5
Length: II/5
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Marlier 1990
Altitude: 1550 m
Exposure: East
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82031 Lat.: 45,800475 - UTM (ED50) - X: 408408,74 Y: 5072754,56

L1: initially easy then becomes vertical. Belay on rock in a niche on the right (fix).
L2: turn left to be faced with another considerable vertical section which progressively becomes less steep. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
L3: two possibilities. Short gully on the right, short jump on the left. Belay at the top on rock (fix).

Descent: abseil down the waterfall (fix) or walk along the channel which is located on the left bank of the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

The super classic of the Gressoney Valley. It is the ice climb that best represents the transition from average to high difficulty. It lies between two mighty rocky bastions that host two great climbing cliffs. It forms nearly every year and is pretty crowded. The following describes the route most taken, on the right (facing uphill) but you can also climb it from the centre and the left with sustained difficulties.

Level: II/4
Length: 140 m
First ascent: A. Jaccod, E. Tarchini 1983
Altitude: 1700 m
Exposure: West
Coordinates: Lon.: 7,82992 Lat.: 45,812001 - UTM (ED50) - X: 409174,18 Y: 5074024,16

L1: icy ramp progressively steeper but never vertical. 60 metres. Belay on rock to the right (fix).
L2: it is the most sustained length with some interesting vertical sections. 50 metres. Belay on rock to the right (fix) or to tree (ropes). Most roped parties descend from here.
L3: easy length to leave the ice climb. Very rarely traversed. 30 metres. Belay on tree.

Descent: if you traverse the last easy length, it will be necessary to walk down the right bank up to S2, where you can abseil down along the waterfall.

Text and photos taken from Effimeri barbagli (M. Giglio, 2014), the complete guide to ice climbs in Aosta Valley.

Without going as far as Gressoney-Saint-Jean, when you get to the hamlet of Valdobbia, turn left and continue towards Savoia castle. Take the road that leads to the cabins of Cialvrina, leaving the care where the road meets the ski slopes of Weissmatten.
The path towards Col Ranzola starts on the right.
The path winds up into the woods and heads right to reach the upper slopes. From here, after a series of pastures, the hill, where an old military shelter stands, is easy to reach.

From the car park in front of the tourist office of Gressoney-Saint-Jean, cross the Lys river and take the wide mule track on the left just after the bridge. Follow it for about 1.5 km along the stream until a hydroelectric power plant near another bridge. Do not cross it but follow the signs for path no. 14 and 15 and continue northwards on a grassy slope until you reach the hamlet of Rong. At this point the path continues among pastures and woods until the village of Òndrò Biela, then reaches the beautiful hamlet of Norvesch, with remarkable historical buildings and a stone bridge dating back to 1540. From there, follow the path on the orographic left through the meadows until reaching in a few minutes Òndrò Eckò, another very interesting example of local architecture consisting of a chapel and some buildings built around a well. Climb up towards the houses of Ôbrò Eckò and continue on a flat dirt road until you reach Léschelbalmò. Staying always on the right side of the stream, walk among pastures in the direction of Gressoney-La-Trinité and, once you reach the first houses, take the first route on the left, cross the regional road and take the first bridge over the Lys stream. Following the road in front of you, you will reach the parish church and Tache square, the heart of the village and the seat of the Tourist Office as well as the Walser Museum, which is a must-see.

From the hamlet of Lommattò take path no. 12, which immediately starts to climb, first among pastures and then through a nice wood of tall trees. After about 1 km the route reaches a bridge crossing the Lòòbach stream, that forms the characteristic waterfalls that can be admired from the bottom of the valley driving up to Gressoney. From there, the path goes uphill and enters the wild Lòò valley until reaching the huts of the Ondre Lòo alpine pasture. The trail crosses then a series of meadows interspersed with woods and finally reaches the numerous buildings that characterize the Obre Lòò pasture, the final destination of the itinerary, in a context of absolute beauty and peace.

The starting point of the itinerary can be reached by taking the road in the direction of the Savoy Castle and the hamlet of Tschalvrinò. Once you reach the end of the carriage road, park your car in the little space available. At the fork to Andro Tschavrinò, take the hiking trail past the prohibition sign, walking among pastures and larch forests. Once you reach the first house, the route becomes flat. Follow it until you reach a hairpin bend, where you take a path that shortly afterwards arrives at a crossroads. Take the flat track marked with the letter W, which crosses the ski slopes twice and then enters the woods, first going uphill and then remaining fairly flat, until you reach path no. 3. At this point, the route goes uphill, first through forests and then through alpine pastures, passing some huts to finally reach the Colle della Ranzola, the highest point of the track, which offers a breathtaking view over the middle Ayas Valley and the Mont Blanc. To finish the loop, from the pass take path no. 3b, which leads to the arrival of the Weissmatten chairlift along a panoramic and pleasant route, first rather flat and then going downhill. From Weissmatten, follow path no. 2 which quickly leads to the junction with the path marked with the letter W already met at the beginning of the track. From there, simply take the dirt road that you previously took, which leads back to the starting point towards Andro Tschalvrinò.

From the car park in front of the Tourist Office, take route Monterosa Weg, opposite the bridge of the regional road on the corner of the cemetery. From there, reach the charming Obre Platz, where you can visit the beautiful and imposing Parish Church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and Umberto I squares, which represent the heart of the small historical centre of Gressoney-Saint-Jean. Going back on the route Monterosa Weg, go straight on and then take the first small road on the left that allows you to easily reach the romantic Gover lake, surrounded by fir trees and offering a wonderful view of the Monte Rosa massif and its glaciers. Cross the small wooden bridge on the lake and take the path first on the right and then on the left to reach, after a short climb, path no. 15. This itinerary is also called the Queen’s Path, since it leads to the charming and romantic Savoy Castle, the summer residence of Queen Margherita during her stays in Gressoney. The mule track crosses a nice waterfall and ends up at the car park at the entrance to the park of the castle, which can also be visited. From here, continue on the paved road that goes slightly uphill, then take the path that descends under the road at the first bend. In a short time you’ll reach a second fork with a new asphalt road, take this one turning left and follow it until you reach another junction past the small chapel of Greschmatto. Turn right and go straight forward, cross the bridge over the Lys river and cross the regional road to take the path that goes up in the middle of the houses towards the Colle Valdobbia. At the top of the hamlet, before reaching the last house, take the flat path on the left called “dei Lombardi” and follow it, walking near beautiful examples of the local architecture. Cross the stream and follow the track northwards until you reach Villa Margherita, seat of the town hall, and the museum of the alpine fauna “Beck-Peccoz” , whose visit is recommended. Now cross the Lys river again, turn right after the bridge and follow the route until you reach the starting point of the trail.

From the car park in front of the Tourist Office, cross the Lys river over the characteristic wooden bridge and turn left onto a dirt road heading north, following the stream and offering a series of beautiful views. After about 1.5 km, at the hydroelectric power plant, cross the river again by taking the path on the left.

Continue straight on, cross the regional road 44 passing the characteristic Tschemenoal chapel, walk through the houses and leave the hamlet following a well-marked path to the left. From there, the route climbs up among beautiful woods and meadows overlooking the village of Gressoney-Saint-Jean and then goes down to the romantic Gover Lake. At this point, the track begins to climb again, passing near a beautiful waterfall and then reaching the entrance to the park of the Savoy Castle, the summer residence of Margherita of Savoy, the first queen of Italy. Do not enter the gate but continue briefly uphill on the paved road until you meet the path under the road at the half bend.

From there, descend among century-old larch trees, meadows and some buildings until reaching a large car park in Bielciuken. Now follow the regional road 44 to the left in the direction of the centre.

After the sports centre, take the paved ramp and turn left following the path northwards, slightly above the valley floor. Walk through the beautiful houses of Verdebio and, after crossing a small bridge, continue in the direction of Villa Margherita, seat of the town hall, and the interesting Alpenfaunamuseum “Beck-Peccoz” . Once you reach the regional road right between the two above-mentioned buildings, cross the river one last time and then follow the route on the right until you reach, after a few hundred metres, the starting point of the itinerary.

From the car park situated along the regional road 44 in the hamlet of Ondre Perletoa (a hundred meters after the village of Tschemenoal) you will find the start of path no. 6. The wide mule track will be steep up to Alpenzu Grande - Gròssalbezò (1779 m), allowing you to quickly overcome almost all the elevation gain of the entire hike. The first part of the trail goes along a forest of tall trees on the right of the waterfalls and along a long series of hairpin bends until reaching the village of Alpenzu Grande. There you will find the Alpenzu Refuge, where you can take a break. Continue along a pleasant and relatively flat route on the orographic right side of the valley towards the Monte Rosa massif. Pay attention while leaving the village, so as not to miss the right track. Take the GSW path at the fork just above the monumental maple tree near a large boulder. The route runs along the side of the mountain, crossing the alpine pastures of Schérfò (1780 m) and Schérfòròng (1814 m), where the trail reaches the highest altitude, and then begins to descend, among wide meadows, to the houses of Hòbelté (1800 m) and immediately afterwards to Alpenzu Piccolo - Léckalbezò (1806 m), another important example of traditional architecture in the Gressoney valley. After leaving the village, the mainly flat path enters a larch wood and, past a last stretch characterized by steep hairpin bends, reaches the regional road 44 at the junction to Léschelbalmò, which marks the end of the itinerary.

At the junction for Savoia castle, head right, going past the houses and take the path that goes up and then goes into the woods. The path winds its way steeply uphill, leading to a junction. Here, you take route no. 11b on the right leaving the left-hand branch, no. 11, which leads to Col Valdobbia. The path continues steeply up the mountainside until you come to another junction. Here you go left and soon you come to the Pozie mountain pastures. Then continuing along the mountainside you reach the Skearpie di Sotto pastures and then soon after, near a hollow, you come to the Skearpie di Sopra. You go over a ridge and come to the charming clearing in the Valle dei Principi, where the direction signs finish.

At the junction for Savoia castle, head right, going past the houses and take the path that goes up and then goes into the woods. Continue along the trail as it winds, up the steep step that leads to a panoramic promontory. Continue into the wood and enter Valdobbia valley. Go past the Cialfrezzo cabins below, turn left, cross the stream and go back up the valley to reach the hill and the Sottile hospice.

From the hamlet of Steina, take the mule track signposted 12.
The trail gradually moves to the right past the stream over the beautiful waterfall of Loo, which is clearly visible from the valley floor.
The trail becomes steeper and crosses the stream again before reaching the pasture of Loo Inferiore (1854 m).
At this point the valley becomes flat and, a moderate climb takes you to the cabins of Loo Superiore (2076 m).
Move left and continue past the short slopes and wide expanses down to the basin of Col Loo. When you get to an important crossroad, ignore the itineraries for Col Lazoney and the Macagno Pass, and continue along route 12, by which you easily gain the hill.

The first section of the path takes you to Lake Gover which is a short distance from the historic centre of Gressoney-Saint-Jean. If on the other hand you follow the path marked no. 15 you come to Tschemenoal which is about two km beyond Gressoney-Saint-Jean.

Accessible to disabled people in wheelchairs if accompanied.

The bivouac is situated beneath Testa Grigia.

From the main car park in Gressoney-Saint-Jean, cross the Lys stream to the right, over a large wooden bridge and then take the dirt road that leads to Tschemenoal. Cross the stream towards the left over another bridge, then go up about 300m on a paved road, until you come to the start of a path on the left. Climb up among the conifer woods, going past two waterfalls, until you reach the refuge of Alpenzù Grande. Cross the fields diagonally, until you come to Òndermòntel pasture, Alpe Loasche and from here, climb up a steep slope to get to Col Pinter. Take route 6 and go up in a series of bends, amidst clods of grass, that lead to a short but insidious traverse and a crumbling gully. You next come to the crest, from where you are just a few minutes away from the bivouac.
Possible route also departing from Gressoney-la-Trinité.

From the parking area cross the street and enter the town center. Cross the town until you reach an open space to the left. In the middle of this open space is Gover lake. Remain on the right back until you find a sign close to the private road that points towards the morainic rock that goes down from the overlooking spur. Follow that road that goes along the horse fence reaching a mule track that goes up to the left lined by a wooden fence. Follow it until you reach a trail that climbs up into the woods, (wooden sign that indicates the ferrata). The steep path climbs up into the vegetation (trailmarker 4a red or yellow and yellow stickers) until you reach another path (trailmarker 15) close to a huge stone. Continue towards the right on sloping plains until you reach the huge morainic rock. On the path, to the left, there is a sign that indicates the Jòsé Angster ferrata. The massive granite rocks climb up to the left, from the sign, and point towards a small chalet. There are a few yellow stickers or markers but you don’t necessarily have to take that path. From the chalet go the right for 7-8 meters where you will reach a path towards the right that crosses the fastenings of the Jòsé Angster ferrata. Continue on the path towards the right and once you’ve reached the edge of the diagonal wall towards the left find the first wires. Continue lert, on a steep trail until you reach the granite ledges of the spur and then continue following the steel wires that take to the mid-wall ledge. Continue on this ledge still on the trail and then directly onto granite overhangs. You turn the first edge (passage with fairly distant hand and foot hold) and then a second one that is slightly exposed. You continue to climb until you reach the last edge where you will find all the difficulties of this climb. Once round the first rocky ledge you reach a large canyon. You continue on a steep fully equipped trail until you reach a horizontal trail that joins with path 4a in ascent. You can descend to the left or reach the peak by following the trail to the right in about ten minutes.

From the parking area cross the street and enter the town center. Cross the town until you reach an open space to the left. In the middle of this open space is Gover lake. Remain on the right bank until you find a sign close to the private road that points towards the morainic rock that goes down from the overlooking spur. Follow that road that goes along the horse fence reaching a mule track that goes up to the left lined by a wooden fence. Follow it until you reach a trail that climbs up into the woods, (wooden sign that indicates the ferrata). The steep path climbs up into the vegetation (trailmarker 4a red or yellow and yellow stickers) until you reach another path (trailmarker 15) close to a huge stone. Continue towards the right on sloping plains until you reach the huge morainic rock. On the path, to the left, there is a sign that indicates the Jòsé Angster ferrata. The massive granite rocks climb up to the left, from the sign, and points towards a small chalet. There are a few yellow stickers or markers but you don’t necessarily have to take that path. From the chalet go the right for 7-8 meters where you will reach a path towards the right that crosses the fastenings of the Jòsé Angster ferrata. You climb up a series of nailed plates with “U” shaped hand and foot holds. The distance between the fastenings requires great skill or resistence. After the first sequence you see the ledge at mid-wall and the wires of the ferrata dei Bambini that climb towards left. You continue vertically entering a slight dihedral close to a few ledges to the left and you pass the steep exiting wall with a small cross over to the left. You reach a small niche with a statue of the Madonna underneath a transparent triangle. There is a trestle bridge hung in midair for those who wish to stop for a few minutes. You continue on the spur with a few areas of soil and you reach the last plaque that juts out from the grassy peak a few meters away from the Italian flag. From the top you continue by passing the characteristic cottage in the back crossing a trail that leads into the woods. You pass the exit of a canal and continue downhill on slightly disconnected marked tracks. Continue following a few bends until you cross a track to the left that at first is sloping and then is all downhill and crosses the wires under the spur. It is the ferrata dei Bambini. It is possible to carefully go down the ferrata or continue along the path to the right. Both lead to the foot of the wall.
To safely cross the ferrata we recommend that you be accompanied by a mountain guide.

WALSER TRADITIONS
Wide wooden balcony, large verge…and a lot of flowers, in the windows and on the balconies. If you see houses like these at the side of the road, you have entered Walser “territory”. But the structure of the habitations is not the only idiosyncrasy of the upper Gressoney Valley. There is also an unusual dialect, different from the patois used by most of the people in Aosta Valley: It is Titsch, a parlance of German roots. The population of Walser in fact originates from Valais, from which they migrated, between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, settling here and in the adjacent Ayas Valley. The first Walser village that you encounter upon climbing the the hollow is Issime, village of ancient origins.

THE SAVOY CASTLE
Two stops in Gressoney-Saint-Jean. The first is the Savoy Castle, which you can see in the pine forest on your left. Completed at the end of the 1800’s by Queen Margherita, passionate mountaineer, stands on a panoramic terrace where you can enjoy a splendid view of the entire valley all the way to the Lyskam glacier. The second stop can be made at Gover Lake for a relaxing walk.

MONTE ROSA
Continue towards Gressoney-La-Trinité through Walser villages, pastures and woods. Monte Rosa awaits you majestically at the end of the itinerary.