Castor
Resorts: Gressoney-La-Trinité
Castor rises next to Pollux and is the higher, more famous and more popular of the twins, one of Monte Rosa’s notorious “four-thousand”. It divides - at the top - the Ayas and Gressoney valleys while marking the border between the Valle d’Aosta and Valais (Switzerland). The eastern side of the mountain is covered by the large Castor glacier that stretches between Castor and Punta Perazzi. The northern side is fully covered by the Zwillings glacier that nestles at the base of the Grenz glacier.
The Castor climb is within many climbers’ reach and facilitated by the chair lift that leads to Colle di Bettaforca.
Technical information
How to get here
Pont Saint-Martin highway exit. Follow Valle di Gressoney state road 505 that ends in Stafal. Take the lifts to Colle di Bettaforca.
Description of the route
Day one
From Colle di Bettaforca, follow the marked path to the ridge that shortly leads to the Bettolina pass. Continue on the wide, scenic ridge until it meets the path that climbs from Pian di Verra to the final ridge area. The segment is partially equipped with hand and rope rails and may be tricky when covered in snow. Climb the steep ramp to the plateau where you will easily reach the Quintino Sella hut.
Day two
From the hut, climb the Felik glacier heading North, crossing the Punta Perazzi base. Turn slightly to the right to the steep snow-covered slope under Colle del Felik. Climb diagonally to the right and return to the left to the pass at altitude 4,061m. Continue North-West following the easy border ridge, thin at some points, to reach the top.
Descent: down the ascent route.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.