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Dent d'Hérens
Resorts: Bionaz
Dent d’Hérens magnificently beautiful mountain. It has numerous different aspects: at times, a massive peak, seen from the North, at times, an elegant and streamline pyramid, as seen from the West. The mountain structure is highly complicated and this explains the diversity and variety of its routes. The one usually considered the normal route to the top is being progressively abandoned due to the objective risks from the northern exposure. The Tiefenmatten ridge – described here - is becoming increasingly more popular, a bit more difficult than the normal route but much safer.
Technical information
How to get here
Aosta Est highway exit. Follow the directions for the Gran San Bernardo tunnel. In Variney, turn right for Valpelline. After the town, continue until the Place Moulin dam.
Description of the route
Day one
From the Place Moulin dam log, follow the narrow dirt road that coasts the artificial lake to Prarayer where you will find the hut. From here, continue along the path that crosses the sloping valley floor. After a long shelf - in sight of the hut - the climb starts. A short segment equipped with chains leads to the Aosta hut.
Day two
From the hut, quickly drop to the edge of the moraine (rain gauge) and follow it to the end. The climb on the Grandes Murailles glacier. A steep but short ice wall protects the entrance to the upper plateau which easily leads to the base of Colle di Tiefenmatten on the left. Some of the fixed cords make the climb in the channel that leads to the pass easier. The route is not market by the edge of the ridge on mixed ground: rocks, ledges and snow-covered segments alternate to create a fun and easy climb to the top.
Descent down the upward itinerary.
This itinerary requires experience of high mountains and it is recommended that you get a mountain guide to accompany you.
